Yesterdays in the PhilippinesStevens, Joseph Earle
History
Yesterdays in the Philippines
Stevens, Joseph Earle
Philippines -- Description and travel
As to population, Manila, in the larger sense, may hold 350,000 souls,
besides a few dogs. Of the lot, call 50,000 Chinese, 5,000 Spaniards,
150 Germans, 90 English, and 4 Americans. The rest are natives or
half-castes of the Malay type, whose blood runs in all mixtures of
Chinese, Spanish, and what-not proportions, and whose Chinese eyes,
flat noses, and high cheek-bones are queer accompaniments to their
Spanish accents. Thus the majority of the souls in Manila,--like the
dogs--are mongrels, or mestizos, as the word is, and the saying goes
that happy is the man who knows his own father.
I spent my first night in Manila at the Spanish Hotel El Oriente, and
it was here that I became acquainted with that peculiar institution,
the Philippine bed. And to the newly arrived traveller its peculiar
rig and construction make it command a good deal of interest, if not
respect. It is a four-poster, with the posts extending high enough
to support a light roof, from whose eaves hang copious folds of deep
lace. The bed-frame is strung tightly across with regular chair-bottom
cane, and the only other fittings are a piece of straw matting spread
over the cane, a pillow, and a surrounding wall of mosquito-netting
that drops down from the roof and is tucked in under the matting. How
to get into one of these cages was the first question that presented
itself, and what to do with myself after I got in was the second. It
took at least half an hour to make up my mind as to the proper mode
of entrance, when I was for the first time alone with this Philippine
curiosity, and I couldn't make out whether it was proper to get in
through the roof or the bottom or the side. After finally pulling away
the netting, I found the hard cane bottom about as soft as the teak
floor, and looked in vain for blankets, sheets, and mattresses. In
fact, it seems as if I had gotten into an unfurnished house, and the
more I thought about it the longer I stayed awake. At last I cut my
way out of the peculiar arrangement, dressed, and spent the decidedly
cool night in a long cane chair, preferring not to experiment further
with the sleeping-machine until I found out how it worked.
Next morning my breakfast was brought up by a native boy, and consisted
of a cup of thick chocolate, a clammy roll, and a sort of seed-cake
without any hole in it. How to drink the chocolate, which was as
thick as molasses, seemed the chief question, but I rightly concluded
that the seed-cake was put there to sop it out of the cup, after the
fashion of blotting-paper. Fortified with this peculiar combination,
I started on my second business day by trying to remember in what
direction the office lay, and wandered cityward through busy streets,
often bordered with arcaded sidewalks, which were further shaded from
the sun by canvas curtains.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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