Yesterdays in the PhilippinesStevens, Joseph Earle
History
Yesterdays in the Philippines
Stevens, Joseph Earle
Philippines -- Description and travel
After beginning the morning by ordering a dozen suits of white sheeting
from a native tailor--price $2.50 apiece--I was introduced to the
members of the English Club, and began to feel more at home stretched
out in one of the long chairs in the cool library. It seems that
the club affords shelter and refreshment to its fourscore members at
two widely separated points of the compass, one just on the banks of
the Pasig River, where its waters, slouching down from the big lake
at the foot of the mountains, are first introduced to the outlying
suburbs of the city, and the other in the heart of the business
section. The same set of native servants do for both departments,
since no one stays uptown during the middle of the day and no one
downtown after business hours. As a result, on week-days, after the
light breakfast of the early morning is over at the uptown building,
the staff of waiters and assistants hurry downtown in the tram-cars
and make ready for the noon meal at the other structure, returning
home to the suburbs in time to officiate at dinner.
At the downtown club is the 6,000-volume library, and after the
noonday tiffin it is always customary to stretch out in one of the
long bamboo chairs and read one's self to sleep. This is indeed a land
where laziness becomes second nature. If you want a book or paper on
the table, and they lie more than a yard or two from where you are
located, it is not policy to reach for them. O, no! You ring a bell
twice as far off, take a nap while the boy comes from a distance, and
wake up to find him handing you them with a graceful "Aquí, Señor!" In
fact, I have even just now met an English fellow who, they tell me,
took a barber with him on a recent trip to the southern provinces, to
look after his scanty beard that was composed of no more than three or
four dozen hairs, each of which grew one-eighth of an inch quarterly.
On the day before Christmas one of the guest-rooms at the uptown
club was vacated, and I moved in. The building is about two and
a half miles out of the city, and its broad balcony, shaded by
luxuriant palms and other tropical trees, almost overhangs the main
river that splits Manila in two. The view from this tropical piazza
is most peaceful. Opposite lie the rice-fields, with a cluster of
native huts surrounding an old church, while, blue in the distance,
sleeps a range of low mountains. To the left the river winds back
up-country and soon loses itself in many turns among the foothills
that later grow into the more adult uplifts on the Pacific Coast,
while to the right it turns a sharp corner and slides down between
broken rows of native huts and more elaborate bungalows.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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