Yesterdays in the PhilippinesStevens, Joseph Earle
History
Yesterdays in the Philippines
Stevens, Joseph Earle
Philippines -- Description and travel
To change the subject rather abruptly, the captain of the Esmeralda,
the little steamer on which I came from Hong Kong, has been good
enough to ask me on board his vessel to tiffin as often as she comes
into port. As Captain Tayler's table is noted both for its excellence
and profusion, the very few of us who comprise the American colony,
as well as all the Englishmen in town, always covet an invitation to
spend Sunday in his company and enjoy various dishes that are not to
be procured in Manila markets.
Besides the several steamers that ply between ports on the neighboring
coast, there is now a large fleet of American ships at anchor in the
bay, and our office, which shelters the only American firm in the
Philippines, is a great centre for the various Yankee, nasal-twanged
skippers, who, dressed in hot-looking, ready-made tweeds, come
ashore without their collars to ask questions about home topics and
read newspapers six weeks old. They delight to enjoy the sea-breezes
generated by our big punka, and only leave the office on matters of
urgent necessity. Several of the captains have their whole families
with them, and one, who is especially well-to-do, owns his own ship,
carries along a bright tutor, who is preparing some of the skipper's
sons for college, and has transformed the vessel into a veritable
institution of learning. On nearly every evening the whole fleet
in a body go to some one ship, sing songs and have refreshments,
and the other night Governor Robie was the host. Being invited to
partake of the festivities, we two Yankees went off into the bay at
about sunset, ate a regulation New England dinner, with rather too
much weight to it for hot climates, and met all the belles of the
fleet. The moon overhead was full, and with a good piano, violin,
hand-organ, and a couple of ocarinas, giving vent to sweet sounds,
we had an impromptu dance on the quarter-deck. We stayed out on the
ship of our host and hostess all night. They apologized because the
bunks in the state-rooms assigned to us were so hard, little realizing
that we couldn't sleep worth a continental on account of their being
so ridiculously soft after our Philippine cane arrangements.
Everybody is talking horse now, and business will be at a standstill
during the first few days of the coming month, when the pony races
take place at the suburban course in Santa Mesa. As a result,
every afternoon that some of us do not go rowing or play tennis, we
adjourn to the race-track, and, in company with groups of Spaniards
and wealthy mestizos, watch the smart ponies circle around the track.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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