Yesterdays in the PhilippinesStevens, Joseph Earle
History
Yesterdays in the Philippines
Stevens, Joseph Earle
Philippines -- Description and travel
And, speaking of the race-course, I have just made arrangements with
one of my new friends to take a bungalow situated on a low rise that
backgrounds the track at the quarter-mile post. It stands, prettily
shaded by bamboo-trees, on practically the first bit of upland that
later grows into the lofty mountains of the interior, and the view
off over the race-course and low-lying paddy-fields, squared off into
sections, toward the city, is most picturesque. On another side we
look off over the winding river toward the mountains, which hardly
appear five miles away, and still another view is a bamboo grove,
against which is backed up our little stable with various outbuildings,
including the kitchen. A broad veranda runs entirely around the main
building, where the living-rooms are located, and Venetian roll-blinds
let down from the piazza-roof keep off the afternoon sun.
Yesterday I had my first experience in making extensive purchases
of furniture, and was interested to see about twelve coolies start
off from the city toward our country residence, three miles away,
loaded down with beds, tables, chairs, and other articles. Four of
them started off later on with the upright piano balanced on a couple
of cross-sticks resting on their shoulders, and trotted the whole
distance without sitting down to play the "Li Hung Chang March" more
than twice. These living carriers rather take the place of express
wagons in the East, and a long caravan of furniture-laden Celestials,
solemnly going along through the highway at a jog-trot, is no uncommon
sight. We shall need dishes, knives, pots and kettles, and a whole
World's Fair of trumpery, before we get started, and I shall have to
be busy with a Spanish dictionary, in order to get familiar with the
right names for the right things.
You have asked me how the mosquitoes fare upon the newly arrived
foreigner. To tell the truth, I have not seen more than half a dozen
since coming to Manila, and those all sang in tune. Everybody sleeps
under nettings, of course, but so far I have not seen as many biters
flying around at night as there are in the United States of America. To
be sure, one sees a good many lizards hanging by the eye-teeth to the
walls, or walking about unconcernedly up-side-down on the ceilings,
but they do good missionary work by devouring the host of smaller bugs,
and it is one of our highest intellectual pursuits here in Manila to
stretch out in a long chair and go to sleep gazing upward at these
enterprising bug-catchers pursuing their vocation. And, now and then,
from some piazza-roof or ceiling will drop on your face a so-called
hairy caterpillar whose promenade on one's epidermis will cause it
to swell up in great welts that close one's eyes and ruffle the temper.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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