In such surroundings as these there were established in the Middle Ages
two religious houses, within a mile of one another, on opposite sides of
the swirling river. On the north bank, not far from Marrick village, you
may still see the ruins of Marrick Priory in its beautiful situation
much as Turner painted it a century ago. Leland describes Marrick as ‘a
Priory of Blake Nunnes of the Foundation of the Askes.’ It was, we know,
an establishment for Benedictine Nuns, founded or endowed by Roger de
Aske in the twelfth century. At Ellerton, on the other side of the river
a little lower down, the nunnery was of the Cistercian Order; for,
although very little of its history has been discovered, Leland writes
of the house as ‘a Priori of White clothid Nunnes.’ After the Battle of
Bannockburn, when the Scots raided all over the North Riding of
Yorkshire, they came along Swaledale in search of plunder, and we are
told that Ellerton suffered from their violence. The ruins that
witnessed these scenes remain most provokingly silent, and Heaven knows
if they ever echoed to the cries of the defenceless nuns or the coarse
laughter of the Scots, for the remains tell us nothing at all.
Where the dale becomes wider, owing to the branch valley of
Arkengarthdale, there are two villages close together. Grinton is
reached first, and is older than Reeth, which is a short distance north
of the river. The parish of Grinton is one of the largest in Yorkshire.
It is more than twenty miles long, containing something near 50,000
acres, and according to Mr. Speight, who has written a very detailed
history of Richmondshire, more than 30,000 acres of this consist of
mountain, grouse-moor, and scar. For so huge a parish the church is
suitable in size, but in the upper portions of the dales one must not
expect any very remarkable exteriors; and Grinton, with its low roofs
and plain battlemented tower, is much like other churches in the
neighbourhood. Inside there are suggestions of a Norman building that
has passed away, and the bowl of the font seems also to belong to that
period. The two chapels opening from the chancel contain some
interesting features, which include a hagioscope, and both are enclosed
by old screens.
Leaving the village behind, and crossing the Swale, you soon come to
Reeth, which may, perhaps, be described as a little town. It must have
thrived with the lead-mines in Arkengarthdale and along the Swale, for
it has gone back since the period of its former prosperity, and is glad
of the fact that its splendid situation, and the cheerful green which
the houses look upon, have made it something of a holiday resort,
although it still retains its grayness and its simplicity, both of which
may be threatened if a red-roofed hotel were to make its appearance, the
bare thought of which is an anxiety to those who appreciate the soft
colours of the locality.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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