When we have left the highest part of Wether Fell, we find the track
taking a perfectly straight line between stone walls. The straightness
is so unusual that there can be little doubt that it is a survival of
one of the Roman ways connecting their station on Brough Hill, just
above the village of Bainbridge, with some place to the south-west. The
track goes right over Cam Fell, and is known as the Old Cam Road, but I
cannot recommend it for any but pedestrians. When we have descended only
a short distance, there is a sudden view of Semmerwater, the only piece
of water in Yorkshire that really deserves to be called a lake. It is a
pleasant surprise to discover this placid patch of blue lying among the
hills, and partially hidden by a fellside in such a way that its area
might be far greater than 105 acres. Those who know Turner’s painting of
this lake would be disappointed, no doubt, if they saw it first from
this height. The picture was made at the edge of the water with the
Carlow Stone in the foreground, and over the mountains on the southern
shore appears a sky that would make the dullest potato-field thrilling.
A short distance lower down, by straying a little from the road, we get
a really imposing view of Bardale, into which the ground falls suddenly
from our very feet. Sheep scamper nimbly down their convenient little
tracks, but there are places where water that overflows from the pools
among the bent and ling has made blue-gray seams and wrinkles in the
steep places that give no foothold even to the toughest sheep. Raydale
and Cragdale also send down becks that join with Bardale Beck just
before they enter Semmerwater. Just now the three glens are particularly
imposing, for some of the big clouds that have been sweeping across the
heavens all day are massing themselves on the edges of the heights, and
by eclipsing themselves have assumed an angry indigo hue that makes the
scene almost Scottish.
Perhaps it is because Yorkshire folk are so unused to the sight of lakes
that both Semmerwater and Gormire, near Thirsk, have similar legends
connected with their miraculous origin. Where the water now covers the
land, says the story, there used to stand a small town, and to it there
once came an angel disguised as a poor and ill-clad beggar. The old man
slowly made his way along the street from one house to another asking
for food, but at each door he met with the same blank refusal. He went
on, therefore, until he came to a poor little cottage outside the town.
Although the couple who lived there were almost as old and as poor as
himself, the beggar asked for something to eat as he had done at the
other houses. The old folk at once asked him in, and, giving him bread,
milk, and cheese, urged him to pass the night under their roof. Then in
the morning, when the old man was about to take his departure, came the
awful doom upon the inhospitable town, for the beggar held up his hands,
and said:
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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