‘Semmerwater, rise! Semerwater, sink!
And swallow the town, all save this house,
Where they gave me meat and drink.’
Of course, the waters obeyed the disguised angel; and, for proof, have
we not the existence of the lake, and is there not also pointed out an
ancient little cottage standing alone at the lower end of the lake?
We lose sight of Semmerwater behind the ridge that forms one side of the
branch dale in which it lies, but in exchange we get beautiful views of
the sweeping contours of Wensleydale. High upon the further side of the
valley Askrigg’s gray roofs and pretty church stand out against a steep
fellside; further down we can see Nappa Hall, surrounded by trees, just
above the winding river, and Bainbridge lies close at hand. We soon come
to the broad and cheerful green, surrounded by a picturesque scattering
of old but well preserved cottages; for Bainbridge has sufficient charms
to make it a pleasant inland resort for holiday times that is quite
ideal for those who are content to abandon the sea. The overflow from
Semmerwater, which is called the Bain, fills the village with its music
as it falls over ledges of rock in many cascades along one side of the
green. There is a steep bridge, which is conveniently placed for
watching the waterfalls; there are white geese always drilling on the
grass, and there are still to be seen the upright stones of the stocks.
The pretty inn called the ‘Rose and Crown,’ overlooking a corner of the
green, states upon a board that it was established in 1445. This date at
one time appeared in raised letters upon a stone over the doorway,
which, Mr. Speight tells us, ‘had formerly a good Norman arch.’ Anything
of that period would, of course, carry the origin of the building back
some centuries earlier than the year claimed for the establishment of
the inn. The great age of the village, owing to its existence in Roman
times, as well as the importance it gained through being not only
situated at important cross-roads, but also on the edge of the forest of
Wensleydale, would account for the early establishment of some sort of
hostelry for the entertainment of travellers. Even at the present day a
horn-blowing custom has been preserved at Bainbridge. It takes place at
ten o’clock every night between Holy Rood (September 27) and Shrovetide,
but somehow the reason for the observance has been forgotten. The
medieval regulations as to the carrying of horns by foresters and those
who passed through forests would undoubtedly associate the custom with
early times, and this happy old village certainly gains our respect for
having preserved anything from such a remote period. When we reach
Bolton Castle we shall find in the museum there an old horn from
Bainbridge.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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