Besides having the length and breadth of Wensleydale to explore with or
without the assistance of the railway, Bainbridge has as its particular
possession the valley containing Semmerwater, with the three romantic
dales at its head. Counterside, a hamlet perched a little above the
lake, has an old hall, where George Fox stayed in 1677 as a guest of
Richard Robinson. The inn bears the date 1667 and the initials ‘B. H.
J.,’ which may be those of one of the Jacksons, who were Quakers at that
time.
On the other side of the river, and scarcely more than a mile from
Bainbridge, is the little town of Askrigg, which supplies its neighbour
with a church and a railway-station. There is a charm in its breezy
situation that is ever present, for even when we are in the narrow
little street that curves steeply up the hill there are peeps of the
dale that are quite exhilarating. The square-topped Addlebrough is
separated from us by a great airy space, and looking up and down the
broad dale which widens eastwards and becomes narrower and more rugged
to the west, there appears to be a vastness lying around us which no
plain can suggest. We can see Wether Fell, with the road we traversed
yesterday plainly marked on the slopes, and down below, where the Ure
takes its way through bright pastures, there is a mist of smoke
ascending from Hawes. Blocking up the head of the dale are the spurs of
Dodd and Widdale Fells, while beyond them appears the blue summit of Bow
Fell. We find it hard to keep our eyes away from the distant mountains,
which fascinate one by appearing to have an importance that is perhaps
diminished when they are close at hand. All the big clouds that
yesterday could scarcely hold up their showers for the shortest
intervals have disappeared; perhaps they have now reached the river in
liquid form, and are sparkling in the sunshine that now comes, without
interruption, from their spotless cenotaph. We will follow Shelley’s
metaphor no further, for there is water enough everywhere to fill the
dales with all the roarings and murmurings that the forces and gills can
supply, and we would gladly forget the cloud’s ‘silent laugh’ as it
begins to unbuild the blue dome of heaven.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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