And so we go on through the wide sunny valley, watching the shadows
sweep across the fields, where often the soil is so thin that the ground
is more white than brown, scanning the horizon for tumuli, and taking
note of the different characteristics of each village. Not long ago the
houses, even in the small towns, were thatched, and even now there are
hamlets still cosy and picturesque under their mouse-coloured roofs; but
in most instances you see a transition state of tiles gradually ousting
the inflammable but beautiful thatch. The tiles all through the Wolds
are of the curved pattern, and though cheerful in the brilliance of
their colour, and unspeakably preferable to thin blue slates, they do
not seem to weather or gather moss and rich colouring in the same manner
as the usual flat tile of the southern counties.
We turn aside to look at the rudely carved Norman tympanum over the
church door at Wold Newton, and then go up to Thwing, on the rising
ground to the south, where we may see what Mr. Joseph Morris claims to
be the only other Norman tympanum in the East Riding. A cottage is
pointed out as the birthplace of Archbishop Lamplugh, who held the See
of York from 1688 to 1691. He was of humble parentage, and it is said
that he would often pause in conversation to slap his legs and say,
‘Just fancy me being Archbishop of York!’ The name of the village is
derived from the Norse word _Thing_, meaning an assembly.
Keeping on towards the sea, we climb up out of the valley, and passing
Argam Dike and Grindale, come out upon a vast gently undulating plateau
with scarcely a tree to be seen in any direction. A few farms are dotted
here and there over the landscape, and towards Filey we can see a
windmill; but beyond these it seems as though the fierce winds that
assail the promontory of Flamborough had blown away everything that was
raised more than a few feet above the furrows. The hedges, tired of
being buffetted, have given up the struggle and become flattened out to
the south-west, and the few trees that have kept themselves alive are
thin and half-starved.
The village of Bempton has, however, contrived to maintain itself in
its bleak situation, although it is less than two miles from the huge
perpendicular cliffs where the Wolds drop into the sea. The cottages
have a snug and eminently cheerful look, with their much-weathered tiles
and white and ochre coloured walls. From their midst rises the low
square tower of the church, and if it ever had a spire or pinnacles in
the past, it has none now; for either the north-easterly gales blew them
into the sea long ago, or else the people were wise enough never to put
such obstructions in the way of the winter blasts. Even the ricks are
put close to the cottages for shelter, and although the day seemed warm,
with a cool wind, when we left Malton, the temperature seems to have
gone down many degrees on this exposed corner of the chalk tableland.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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