Beyond the Market-place the streets become narrow, except at the
triangular space, half-way to the Minster, called the Wednesday Market,
and I cannot honestly say that there is any charm or attractiveness to
be found in this portion of the city. There is a rather poverty-stricken
appearance in the houses and the shops that seems unnecessary, and
hardly what we should expect on approaching the Minster precincts.
When, in time, the splendid pile appears in front of us, it is with a
sense of intense disappointment that we find the surroundings utterly
unworthy. All who know Winchester or Salisbury or Canterbury realize the
intense charm of their beautiful closes, where stately cedars pronounce
a benediction over the gables and ancient leaded windows of houses whose
every detail is exquisite. At Beverley, instead of any small suggestion
of such charm, we find modern cottages, which, if not aggressively ugly,
are so woefully out of place that they should be swept away at any cost.
On the south side there is a space of uneven ground partially enclosed
by dilapidated fragments of fence, littered with rubbish, and surrounded
by squalid little houses. The unfinished aspect of this miserable scene
is less depressing than it might otherwise be, in the hope it inspires
that some scheme of improvement may make use of the present opportunity.
It is on account of its dismal environment on the south side that I
prefer the north, and in painting the western towers under an evening
light I have chosen a time when the commonplace cottages facing them
lose their offensiveness. Without the towers I should not regard the
exterior of the Minster with any real pleasure, for the Early English
chancel and greater and lesser transepts, although imposing and massive,
are lacking in proper proportion, and in that deficiency suffer a loss
of dignity. The eulogies so many architects and writers have poured out
upon the Early English work of this great church, and the strangely
adverse comments the same critics have levelled at the Perpendicular
additions, do not blind me to what I regard as a most strange
misconception on the part of these people. The homogeneity of the
central and eastern portions of the Minster is undeniable, but because
what appears to be the design of one master-builder of the thirteenth
century was apparently carried out in the short period of twenty years,
I do not feel obliged to consider the result beautiful. The five pairs
of turrets at the outer angles of the transepts and chancel are so
ponderous and so tall that they dwarf the great gables and spoil the
general outline by their wrong proportions. And as for the windows, they
are unrestful and unpleasing to the eye in a way that is typical of the
period. I explain my dislike for this style of English church
architecture from the lack of those continuous lines that made their
appearance in the Decorated period, and not only softened the crude
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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