Zanzibar; city, island, and coast. Vol. 1 (of 2)Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
History
Zanzibar; city, island, and coast. Vol. 1 (of 2)
Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
Africa, East -- Description and travel; Ethnology -- Tanzania -- Zanzibar; Zanzibar -- Description and travel
The gateway is the usual intricate barbican. Here in olden times, after
the prayers of el Asr (3 p.M.) the governor and three judges, patriarchs
with long grey beards, unclean white robes, and sabres in hand, held
courts of justice, and distributed rough-and-ready law to peaceful
Banyans, noisy negroes, and groups of fierce Arabs. The square bastion
projecting from the curtain now contains upper rooms for the Baloch
Jemadar (commandant). The ground-floor is a large vestibule, upon whose
shady masonry-benches the soldiery and their armed slaves lounge and
chat, laugh and squabble, play and chew betel. On the left of the outer
gate is a Cajan shed, where native artists are setting up carriages for
the guns whose lodging is now the hot ground. The experiment of firing a
piece was lately tried; it reared up and fell backwards, smashing its
frail woodwork and killing two artillery ‘chattels.’
Travellers have observed that a launch could easily dismantle this
stronghold. It was once, the legend runs, attacked and taken by a single
‘Jack,’ for the honour of whose birthplace Europe and America vainly
contend. Determined to liberate two brother-tars from the ignoble
bilboes, he placed himself at the head of a party consisting of a
Newfoundland dog. He fell upon the guard _sabre au poing_, and, left
master of the field, he waved his bandanna in vinous triumph from the
battlements. Sad to relate, this Caucasian hero succumbed to Hamitic
fraud. The discomfited slaves rallied. Holding a long rope, they ran
round and round the enemy, till, wound about like a windlass or a silk
cocoon, he was compelled to surrender at discretion.
The interior of the fort is jammed with soldiers’ huts, and divided into
courts by ricketty walls. Here, too, is the only jail in Zanzibar. The
stocks (Makantarah), the fetters, the iron collars, and the heavy waist-
chains, do not prevent black man from conversationizing, singing comic
songs, and gambling with pebbles. The same was the case with our gruel-
houses—‘Kanji-Khanah,’ vulgò ‘Conjee-Connah’—in British India. The
Sepoys laughed at them and at our beards. The Bombay Presidency jail is
known to Arabs as El Bistan (El Bostan, the Garden), because the courts
show a few shrubs, and with Ishmaelites a ‘Bistan’ has ever an _arrière
pensée_ of Paradise. But the most mutinous white salt that ever floored
skipper would ‘squirm’ at the idea of a second night in the black-hole
of Zanzibar. Such is the Oriental beau-ideal of a prison—a place whose
very name should develope the goose-skin, and which the Chinese
significantly call ‘hell.’
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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