Zanzibar; city, island, and coast. Vol. 2 (of 2)Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
History
Zanzibar; city, island, and coast. Vol. 2 (of 2)
Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
Africa, East -- Description and travel; Ethnology -- Tanzania -- Zanzibar; Zanzibar -- Description and travel
The Kisulodi-ni Mission House[13] at Rabai Mpia appeared to us in these
lands a miracle of industry. Begun about 1850 by Messrs Rebmann and
Erhardt, it was finished after some two years of uncommonly hard work.
The form is three sides of a hollow square, completed with a railing to
keep poultry from vagrancy, and the azotea, or flat roof, is ascended by
an external ladder; the material is sandstone, clay-plastered and
white-washed; mangrove rafters form the ceiling, and Mvuli planks the
doors and shutters. It has, however, its inconveniences, being far from
that source of all comfort, the well, and beplagued with ants—the little
red wretches are ubiquitous by day, and by night overrunning the
clothes, nestling in the hair, and exploring nose and ears without a
moment’s repose, they compel the inmates to sleep with pans of water
supporting the couch legs. We enjoyed sundry huge ‘sneakers’ of tea, and
even more still the cool, light, refreshing air of the heights, and the
glorious evening, which here, unlike ‘muggy’ Zanzibar, follows the heavy
showers. The altitude by B. P. proved to be 750 feet, not 1200 to 2000,
as reported.
The servants, most grotesque in garb and form, gathered to stare at the
new white men, and those hill-savages who were brave enough to enter a
house stalked about, and stopped occasionally to relieve their minds by
begging snuff or cloth. One of the attendants had that in his face and
manner which suggested the propriety of having a revolver ready. ‘Do not
mind him,’ said Mrs Rebmann, ‘he is a very dear friend,—one of our
oldest converts.’ ‘Yes,’ pursued her husband, ‘Apekunza was mentally
prepared for Christianity by a long course of idiocy, poor fellow!’ We
were somewhat startled by the utter simplicity of the confession when it
was explained to us that the convert Apekunza, whom Dr Krapf calls Abbe
Gunja, had, as often happens to Africans, been driven to distraction by
the loss of all his friends and relatives. M. Rebmann also related to me
in pathetic terms the death of the mechanic missionary, Johannes Wagner,
a youth who, suffering from typhus, was very properly, but in vain,
supplied with abundant stimulants, therefore the Arab version of the
event was Sharrabúhu Khamr kasír—sár sakrán—mát wa Jehannum (they gave
him much strong liquor—he got drunk—died, and went to Gehenna). To
compare the edification of the people round the Christian death-bed, as
set forth in the Missionary Intelligencer, was not a little suggestive
of the delusions in which even honest men can live.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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