Zanzibar; city, island, and coast. Vol. 2 (of 2)Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
History
Zanzibar; city, island, and coast. Vol. 2 (of 2)
Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
Africa, East -- Description and travel; Ethnology -- Tanzania -- Zanzibar; Zanzibar -- Description and travel
rashly crossed from bank to bank; the dove coo’d in the denser foliage;
the yellow vulture, apparently keeping a bright look-out, perched upon
the topmost tree-crest overhanging the shoal water which lined the
sides; the small grey kingfisher poised himself with twinkling wings;
the snowy paddy-bird stood meditating upon the margin of the wave, while
sober-coated curlews and sandpipers took short sharp runs, and stopped
to dive beak into the dark vegetable mud.
After seven hours, or ten miles, of alternate rowing, sailing, and
pushing through pelting rain and potent sunbeams, we reached, about
mid-day, the pier—a tree projecting from the right bank over the miry
graves of many defunct mangroves. Our boat, stripped of sail, oars, and
rudder, to secure her presence next morning, was made fast to a stump,
and we proceeded to breast the hills. We began with rolling ground,
sliced and split by alternate heat and moisture, thickly grown with tall
coarse grass, sun-scorched to a sickly tawny brown, and thinly sprinkled
with thorny trees. Amongst the latter I recognized the ‘Gabol’-mimosa of
Somaliland, whose long sharp needle, soft whilst young, but dry, hard,
and woody when old, springs from a hollow filbert-like cone.
Another mile brought us to the first ascent of the Rabai hills. The
pitch of the fell was short but sharp, and the path wound amongst
boulders, and at times under palms and clumps of grateful shade. On the
summit appeared the straggling lodges of the savages, pent-housed sheds
of dried fronds, surrounded by sparse cultivation, lean cattle, and
vegetation drooping for want of rain. The desert people were all armed,
being in terror of the Wamasai, the natural enemies of their kind. None,
however, carried guns, the citizens of Mombasah having strictly
prohibited the importation of powder; a wise precaution which might be
adopted by more civilized races upon the West African coast. Amid cries
of Yambo!—a salutation which recalled dim memories of Mumbo
Jumbo—especially from that part of the community termed by prescriptive
right the fair—questions as to whether our bundle contained provisions,
and the screams of lean-ribbed children, we pursued our road under the
grateful cover of a little wood, and then over ridgy ground where a
scattered village, shortly to be wasted by the Kimasai spear, was
surrounded by the scantiest cultivation. At the end of a five-mile walk
we entered the Mission House, introduced ourselves, and received from Mr
and Mrs Rebmann the kindest welcome. They were then alone, M. Deimler,
who had lived with Mr Isenberg in Abyssinia, having left them three days
before in H. M.’s ship Castor, the late Commodore Trotter. We afterwards
saw the latter at Zanzibar.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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