Behind the Veil in Persia and Turkish Arabia: An Account of an Englishwoman's Eight Years' Residence Amongst the Women of the East — David Hume — John Shaqi
Behind the Veil in Persia and Turkish Arabia: An Account of an Englishwoman's Eight Years' Residence Amongst the Women of the East
David Hume · en
The last part of that drive into Teheran has left a vivid remembrance
on my mind. It was a Saturday, and we were very desirous of reaching
Teheran that night, otherwise it meant spending Sunday at a village
near the city, as we did not like travelling on that day. So we
determined to push on at all costs. To add to our difficulties it began
to pour with rain soon after starting in the morning, and continued
a steady drench the whole day. Long before we reached the end of our
stage we were both wet through to the skin. Sunset found us still some
twenty miles out of Teheran, and, the horses beginning to show signs of
fatigue, we perforce had to rest them for a while. When we were within
five miles or so of the city, we found the road all flooded, and it
was difficult to know where the road ended and the ditch began which
ran parallel to the road on both sides. It was by then pitch dark, so
there was nothing to be done but let the horses take their own way,
hoping their instincts would lead them and us safely. All went well
till we were within sight of the lights of Teheran, when suddenly smash
went the carriage, and down fell the horses into a deep ditch. One poor
horse (our own, which we were taking to Teheran to sell) never moved,
and we thought he was dead. I jumped down from the dogcart and landed
in the ditch nearly up to my waist in water! The lamps had gone out,
and we were in total darkness. We called and called for help but no
one came, so my husband and I walked on a little to see if we could
find any one to help, leaving the horses and carriage in charge of
the driver, who was half beside himself with fear.
Presently we came across a little wayside coffee-house, and found
some men who were willing to go and help extricate the poor horses
from their dangerous position, while we walked on to the gate of
the city and waited in the porter's lodge. After about an hour the
carriage came along, the horses looking none the worse for their
escapade. Our kind friends of the American Mission were waiting up,
and had prepared hot baths and hot drinks for us, knowing that if we
did arrive that night at all we should be in a terrible plight. Thanks
to their kindness and thoughtfulness, we suffered no harm from our
damp and adventurous drive.