Behind the Veil in Persia and Turkish Arabia: An Account of an Englishwoman's Eight Years' Residence Amongst the Women of the East — David Hume — John Shaqi
Behind the Veil in Persia and Turkish Arabia: An Account of an Englishwoman's Eight Years' Residence Amongst the Women of the East
David Hume · en
While in Persia we had some very enjoyable holidays, but as I could
not endure the altitude we were never able to go to the mountains,
which of course make the ideal summer resorts. However, we managed
to find some very pretty and fairly cool places in the plains or on
slightly elevated ground. Our first holiday in Persia was spent in a
very pretty little village called Natanz. I had been taken ill on our
way to Isphahan, and the lady doctor who came out to meet us suggested
our going for a week or so to this little village before entering
Isphahan. Spring was already well advanced, and it is difficult to
recruit in the hot season.
Natanz is a picturesque little village, slightly off the general route,
so that the natives had not then become very much used to Feringhis
staying with them, and our coming caused no little excitement. We
arrived there about twelve o'clock one night, and were conducted to
our room by an admiring throng, and this throng continued to "admire"
for the whole time we were there. The windows of our room were
composed of lattice work only, so all interested could always have a
good view of our movements. On waking in the morning there were our
faithful followers to be seen with their faces flattened against the
trellis work, waiting for us to wake, and see what we were going to
do next! At times this interest shown on the part of the inhabitants
was a trifle embarrassing, but as often as they were driven away by
our servant just as often did they return again whenever his back
was turned. For the first day or two I did not leave the room, but
when I felt stronger I used to sit in a chair outside the window
reading or writing. The moment my husband left me the women all
swarmed round like bees, full of curious questions. Unfortunately at
that time I was not able to talk to them, not knowing the language,
but I could make out what they were saying to a great extent from
their gestures. My fountain pen was a cause of great amusement and
astonishment, as were also my hairpins. The delight of some of the
women on being presented with a hairpin was very funny. They seemed to
think I stuck them into my head, as into a pincushion. At first the
women were rather shy, as they could not be quite sure whether I was
a man or a woman, but one of them came and peeped under my hat and
seeing I had long hair concluded I was a woman. My husband received
a visit from the governor of the village, who was very delighted to
see an English hakeem. We were quite sorry when our little holiday
in Natanz was over, but being anxious to push on to Isphahan, did
not care to prolong our stay longer than was necessary.