Behind the Veil in Persia and Turkish Arabia: An Account of an Englishwoman's Eight Years' Residence Amongst the Women of the East — David Hume — John Shaqi
Behind the Veil in Persia and Turkish Arabia: An Account of an Englishwoman's Eight Years' Residence Amongst the Women of the East
David Hume · en
Our next holiday was in the summer of the same year 1900. This time
we went only a few hours' drive out of Isphahan to a place called
Pulivagoon. It was a very pretty little village, and a nice house,
belonging to the Zil es Sultan, had been lent to us for a month. The
house was built practically on the river, as our windows hung right
over the water, and the sound of its rushing torrent reminded us of the
lapping of the waves on the seashore in dear Old England. There were
some lovely woods near by, to which we often used to take our tea,
and pass the time pleasantly paddling, bathing, and fishing in the
river. The following year we were at Kerman, and went for our holidays
to a lovely garden about nine hours' ride from the city. Mahoon lies
very high; it must be at least 6700 feet above sea-level. The climate
is beautiful, but the altitude proved too high for me to enjoy it
much. We had a very tiring ride from Kerman; starting one day soon
after noon we rode for three or four hours, then had a refreshing cup
of tea under the shadow of a large spreading tree. But we could not
afford to linger, for we still had a good half of our journey before
us, so once more we mounted our respective steeds, hoping to reach
our destination about nine o'clock, but alas for our hopes! Nine
o'clock came and went, and still we seemed no nearer; ten o'clock,
and still no sign of our village. It was now pitch dark, and we
were all very tired and hungry, and I was so dead beat that I could
hardly sit upright on my animal. My husband rode close by my side,
to be in readiness in case I should fall off in my sleep. To the
oft-repeated question, "How much farther?" the answer always came,
"Ensha'allah--only half-an-hour." Oh, those half-hours, how wearisome
they became! I did so wish that they would say two hours or three hours
for a change, for the everlasting half-hour was so tantalising. Our
servants told me afterwards that they said this to keep up my spirits,
as they thought, if they told the truth about the distance, "the
Khanum's heart would melt within her." At last, just after midnight,
we heard a very energetic coo-ing ahead of us, and knew that at
last we were within sound of rest and food. It was so dark that we
could not find the path leading to the garden, and our animals went
floundering about over great boulders of stones or stumbling into
ditches, and of course all in the wrong direction, till some one met
us and conducted our tired party into the house. Here we found that
our baggage animals, with Bagi and the other servants, had not yet
turned up, though they had started an hour or two before us. They did
not arrive till morning, so there was nothing for it but to lie down
on bare boards and go to sleep supperless. The only drinking vessel
to be found was a saucepan, from which we had a most refreshing drink
of water and retired to our luxurious couch, sleeping as well and as
soundly as if we were lying on beds of softest down. We were awakened