The Court of Philip IV.: Spain in Decadence — David Hume — John Shaqi
The Court of Philip IV.: Spain in Decadence
David Hume · en
rode with great rapidity, but the Infante Carlos and the Marquis of
Carpio went by like a flash of lightning, to the astonishment of
everyone. This pair had hardly covered half the course when the Queen
and the Infanta and the Cardinal Infante stood up in their balcony,
because they saw that the King and the Count of Olivares were starting
out, they being the last to run. They swept by, not on steeds, as it
seemed, but on the wind itself, wafted onward by the blessings of those
who saw them. Again they covered the course thus, and then the whole
cavalcade rode to the plaza before the Convent of the Discalced
Carmelites."
At various parts of the capital the same sumptuous show was repeated;
the most popular and crowded exhibition being in the great square (the
Plaza Mayor) then recently built, and but little altered since that
time. The King, we are told, rode a beautiful bay stallion presented
to him by the Marquis of Carpio; and when the running was over and
night fell the horsemen still paraded the streets, which were
illuminated by thousands {67} of torches, the cost of the feast having
amounted to more than 200,000 ducats.
[Sidenote: Two strangers in Madrid]
But ten days after the wasteful ostentation just described an event
happened which not only stirred Spain and all Europe, but was an
occasion for the display of lavishness by Philip that threw into the
shade all the festivities that had gone before it. Between five and
six in the evening of the 7th March 1623, as the twilight began to
fall, two young Englishmen, travel-stained and unaccompanied, rode into
the noisome, unpaved streets of Madrid. Inquiring the way to the house
of the English ambassador, the Earl of Bristol, they were directed to
the "house of the seven chimneys," lying in a retired street off the
Calle de Alcalá. When they arrived there, the elder of the two
travellers was told, in answer to his summons at the wicket, that his
Excellency the ambassador was busy, and could not be disturbed. The
visitor persisted, and sent word that he brought an important letter
from Sir Francis Cottington, who was on his way from England, and had
broken down on the road a day's journey away. At length, upon being
admitted, the cloaked and dishevelled stranger, shouldering a small
valise that formed their only luggage, left his younger companion in
the shadow of the wall across the way to guard the horses during his
parley with the ambassador.