A peculiarity of this church of St. Francisco, as of the cathedral of
Evora, which I shall mention presently, is that the brown granite blocks
of which it is constructed are clearly marked out with staring white
divisions of cement, either real or simulated. The effect is one of very
questionable taste, but the peculiarity is not a modern innovation, and
the series of white transverse lines traced upon the brown background
has some attraction from its very strangeness. The story goes that this
monastery-church, founded originally in 1224, twice fell down, and when,
after the second disaster late in the fifteenth century, the famous
architect, Martin Lourenço, was commissioned to construct a new church,
he swore that his building, at least, should never share the fate of its
predecessors. Instead of a single main outer wall he built two on each
side of the church, all of similar height, the space between the inner
and outer walls being about five feet or less, and in the lower portion
of this space the side chapels are accommodated. The two walls were tied
together by transverse walls of similar strength and height between the
chapels, and upon each of these transverse walls, which are carried over
the roof to the opposite pair of walls, similarly constructed, the roof
arches rest. The roof is, therefore, divided into six independent
sections, each one supported by its own separate walls and arch. As if
this were not enough, a similar arrangement was made below the ground,
where corresponding sets of transverse walls were carried across to the
other side, and thus the whole nave consisted of six complete and
self-supporting bodies joined together. Even this did not satisfy Martin
Lourenço. He built yet another wall longitudinally along the central
ridge of the roof, and a similar one underground along the same axis
binding together both above and below the transverse sections from end
to end, and increasing the stability of the building by the added
weight. All this it is, of course, impossible to see from the inside,
but from the praça the top battlements of the four long lines of wall
and the roof-ridge are discernible, and the skeleton of the church, so
to speak, can be understood.
A door in the transept leads to an extraordinary chapel of considerable
size (58 feet long by 34 broad), divided into a nave and two aisles, the
whole of the walls, pillars, and ceiling of which are lined or
constructed of skulls and other human bones, arranged in symmetrical
patterns. The remains of many thousands of human beings are contained in
this ghastly chamber, probably constructed by the monks in the
seventeenth century from the contents of ancient crypts and
charnel-houses. The specially venerated figure of our Lord, of which
this was formerly the chapel, has now been transferred to an adjoining
apartment better adapted for modern worship.