In the sacristy of Oporto Cathedral they will show you a painting on
terra-cotta of the Virgin and Child, backed by St. Joseph and angels
bearing a cross, which is asserted to be a Raphael. The composition and
drawing are clearly the work of a disciple of his school, but the
colouring is dull and grey, such as the great one of Urbino would never
have produced. Not this so-called Raphael, but another picture of the
highest interest and beauty, is the principal artistic treasure of the
city. In the board-room of Oporto’s most cherished and beneficent
institution, the vast charitable organisation called the Misericordia,
there hangs a painting that has few, if any, equals in Portugal. It is
claimed for Jan Van Eyck, who is known to have been in Portugal for two
years at about the period (1520) represented by the work, though
personally I could see but slight traces of the peculiar quality of
either of the brothers Van Eyck. Certainly it is broader in style than
anything I have seen from the brush of the younger brother Jan, and may
well be the work of Hubert Van der Goes or Hans Memling. But, whoever
may be the painter, the picture is a magnificent one. Against a
background representing a typical Flemish landscape and walled town,
such as Memling loved to paint, there is a highly ornamented font filled
with a pool of blood replenished from the stream that issues from the
Saviour’s side, as He hangs upon the cross rising from the centre of the
pool. Upon the edge of the font, on each side of the cross, in attitudes
of prayer, stand two lovely life-size figures of the Virgin and St.
John, whilst in the foreground there kneel, in regal robes of crimson,
ermine, and gold brocade, the figures of the founder of the Misericordia
in 1499, King Manuel the Fortunate and his wife. Kneeling behind them in
decreasing size are members of their family, and on the farther side
beyond the font are groups of ecclesiastics and laymen, all evidently
life-like portraits of prominent courtiers, or benefactors of the
institution. The colouring of the picture is glowing and gorgeous in the
extreme, and the loving care expended upon the details is such as only
the early Flemings had patience to exercise, accompanied by a breadth
and boldness unusual in most of them. Fons Vitæ, as the painting is
called, from an inscription on the edge of the font, is emblematical of
the foundation of the home of mercy it adorns. Nor is it the only art
treasure the Misericordia possesses, apart from the hundreds of awful
daubs representing dead and gone benefactors that crowd every inch of
wall-space. There is to be seen a beautiful Gothic gold chalice of
fifteenth-century Portuguese work, some fifteen inches high, a specimen
of the famous handicraft of the city, of great interest, the work being
of the most intricate and elaborate description, and the condition of
the jewel perfect.