Kings, queens, and princes, whose names now mean little even in the
country where they held sway and nothing elsewhere, lie around in tombs
of varying magnificence, together with débris and relics of times
earlier than any of them. The usual dense ignorance is displayed by the
guardian of the objects he is supposed to describe; for he points out
two very small ancient sarcophagi, one of them obviously Byzantine
Romanesque, and the other probably pre-Christian, and tells you gravely
that they once contained the bodies of Ines de Castro’s children. Both
of them are centuries earlier than her time, and her only children grew
up and survived her. But this is not more absurd than the
representation, in the current English “History of Portugal,” of a lady
in the height of the Portuguese fashion of the end of the seventeenth
century as Ines de Castro, who lived in the fourteenth.
The cloister of the monastery presents the characteristics of two
styles. The lower part is pure early Gothic, like the church and
chapter-house, with simple rose lights in each arch; but the upper
storey has evidently been added or rebuilt in the early sixteenth
century in good Manueline taste; and in one corner there is a very
beautiful fountain in the same style bearing the monogram of the
“Fortunate” monarch Manuel himself. The vast refectory, of which
Beckford spoke so sneeringly, as dirty and slovenly, is entered by a
handsome Manueline doorway, and is now being restored. The entrance to
the sacristy is also a fine specimen of Manueline, but inside the bad
taste of the late seventeenth-century monks is rampant. All around the
great square apartment are carved and gilt niches, in which are dozens
of life-sized busts also carved and gilt, of saints and bishop, each of
which has a hollow for a relic upon the breast, all now despoiled of
their contents; and the precious treasury of jewels, ornaments, and
embroidery that aroused the envious admiration of the virtuoso Beckford,
has all disappeared, many of the most beautiful and precious objects
being now in the Museum of Fine Arts at Lisbon, a storehouse of mediæval
goldsmith’s work unsurpassed in Europe, though almost completely
neglected both by residents and visitors to the capital.