The _déjeuner_ went on without further interruption, and the guitar girl
drummed away until the table was cleared. We were not at a loss for
entertainments after the feast was ended. Tyck’s costumes were drawn
upon, and a Flemish musician sang a costume duet with a Walloon
sculptor, one being laced up in a blue satin ball-dress, and the other
staggering under the weight of a janissary’s uniform. Later on there
was a dancing _concours_, in which the Indian war-dance, the English
jig, the negro walk-around, the tarantella, the Flemish _reuske_, and
the Hungarian _csárdás_ each had its nimble-footed performers. The scene
was worth putting upon canvas. The confusion of quaint and rare
trinkets, the abundance of color-bits, and the picturesque groups of
figures in all the costumes that could be improvised for the dance or
the song--a museum of _bric-à-brac_ and a carnival of characters--all
this made a _tableau vivant_ of great richness and interest.
About the middle of the afternoon the entertainment began to flag a
little, and the moment there was a lull in the sport some one proposed a
trip to Ponte Molle. The vote was immediately taken and carried, and we
marched out to the Piazza del Popolo and engaged an omnibus for the rest
of the day.
The straggling suburb outside the Porta del Popolo was lively with
pleasure-seeking Romans. The wine-shops were full of sad-eyed peasants
and weary, careworn laborers; all the mournful character of a Roman
merry-making was unusually prominent on this cheerless holiday, and the
cloaked natives chatted as solemnly as if they were mourners at a
funeral. Roman festivities are, in general, not calculated to divert the
participants to a dangerous extent. Wine-drinking is the chief
amusement; and even under the enlivening influences of his potations the
Roman rarely loses his habitual seriousness of manner, but bears himself
to the end of the orgy as if he expected every moment to be called upon
to answer for the sins of his ancestors. As we drove along the straight,
broad road that raw afternoon, we met numberless carts and omnibuses
filled with laborers returning from the wine-shops in the Campagna; the
sidewalks were crowded with people on their way to and from the
_trattorie_ near the Tiber; and scarcely a song was heard, rarely a
laugh sounded above the rattle of the wheels. The natives were making a
business of amusement, and formed a staid and sober procession, on an
occasion when in Germany or Belgium the frolics and noisy merriment of
the people would have known no bounds short of the limit of physical
endurance. We were probably regarded as escaped maniacs because we
persisted in breaking the voiceless confusion by our hearty Flemish
songs. We left the omnibus in the yard of a _trattoria_ at some distance
out in the Campagna, and strolled over the hills for an hour, watching
the dark, cold mountains and the broad, sad-tinted waste spread out
before us.