The solemn beauty of the Campagna is always impressive; under
a gray sky it assumes a sombre and mournful aspect. To the north of the
city, the low, flat-topped hills combine in a peculiar way to form
silhouettes of great nobleness of character and simplicity of line. They
are the changeless forms that endure like the granite cliffs, monumental
in their grandeur. When moving shadows of the clouds form purple patches
across these hills, and the dull gray of the turf comes into occasional
relief in a spot of strong sunlight, the scene is one of unique and
matchless beauty--a heroic landscape, with wonderful vigor and dignity
of line and extraordinary delicacy of tone. That afternoon the dog,
which had accompanied Tyck on the excursion, furnished us our chief
amusement. We tossed sticks down the steep gravel banks, to watch his
lithe black form struggle through the brambles, seize the bit, and
return it to us. He, poor animal, had probably been shut up within the
walls of Rome longer than the rest of the party, and entered into the
outdoor frolics with even more zest than his human companions. Below the
_trattoria_ there was a narrow brook bridged by a rail, and we tried to
get the poodle to walk this narrow path, but with no success. Tyck at
last made the attempt, to encourage the dog, but on his way back he
slipped and wet his feet and ankles thoroughly. Most of us thought this
accident of not the least importance, but one or two of the old
residents advised a return to the wine-shop, hinting of a possible
serious illness in consequence of the wetting. At the _trattoria_ Tyck
dried himself at the large open fire in the kitchen, and we thought no
more of it. The old Porta del Popolo answered our chorus with a
welcoming echo as we drove in, shortly after dark, and mingled with the
shivering crowd hurrying to their homes. Our Christmas had at least been
a merry one to the most of us, but I could not forget the incident of
the dog; and as I walked through the streets to my cheerless room a
strange dread gradually took entire possession of me in spite of my
reason.