One day, as a boy, I came to grief because I was so absorbed by the
interesting things about me that I took no note of the passing of time
or of the altitude to which I had climbed. From my camp at Bear Lake I
had followed the old Flattop trail to the Divide, from which I could
see a hundred miles or more in all directions; to the north the
mountains of Wyoming peeped through purple haze; eastward, the
foothills dropped away to the flat and endless prairies, with gleaming
lakes everywhere. West and south, my own Rockies rose, tier on tier,
to snowy heights. Gay and fragrant flowers beckoned my footsteps off
the trail; friendly conies "squee-eked" at me from their rocky lookout
posts; fat marmots stuffed themselves, making the most of their brief
summer. A buck deer left off polishing his new horns on a scraggly
timberline tree to look at me. Overhead an eagle swept round and round
in endless circles.
From the rim of the cañon, between Flattop and Hallett, I viewed the
spot where I had blundered over the edge of the snow-cornice on the way
to the dance. Beneath lay Tyndall glacier, its greenish ice exposed by
the summer thaw. I circled the head of the cañon and climbed to the
top of Hallett. From my eerie height, I got an eagle's view of the
world below--a hazy, hushed world where the birds called faintly, the
brooks murmured quietly and even the wind spoke in whispers. From near
by came the crash of glacier ice; falling rocks that thundered down the
cliffs.
All the afternoon I traveled along the crest of the Divide, wandering
southward, away from familiar country into a new maze of peaks and
glaciers, deep cañons and abrupt precipices. Suddenly a gale of wind
struck me, blinded me with penetrating snow. In that instant, without
preliminary or warning, summer changed to winter, and forced me off the
heights. It was impossible to thread my way back over the route I had
come; for it twisted in and out, around up-flung crags and cliffs.
My compass showed that the wind was driving eastward, the direction in
which I wanted to go; so I headed down wind, secure in the thought that
I would soon be off the roof of the world. Lightning and heavy thunder
accompanied the snowstorm, the clouds came down and blotted out the
day; twilight descended upon the earth.
A band of mountain sheep started up from their shelter behind an
upthrust rock and ran ahead of me. I followed them, partly because
they ran in the direction I was going, and partly because they are apt
to select the safest way down the cliffs.
But they turned aside the moment they were out of the wind, swung up on
a protected ledge and there halted to wait out the storm. My compass
had gone crazy. A dozen times I tried it out. It would point a
different direction whenever I moved a few steps. However, the compass
mattered little; the chief thing that concerned me was getting down off
the roof of the world.