Adrift on the Amazon — John Stuart Mill — John Shaqi
Adrift on the Amazon
John Stuart Mill · en
“They are here, that is the crocodiles are, but the water is too high to
see them,” he said. “During the dry season the sand bars and islands are
covered with them. There are plenty of anacondas, too, but they stay
around the banks. So you are going into the interior, I hear!”
“Yes, to a ranch that’s just starting up,” David replied.
“Well, you’ll see all the snakes and other vermin you want, and more
too.”
“Fine! I have never been here before and I want to see everything there
is to be seen.”
“You had better look fast then, because you won’t stay long. They all go
back pretty quick.”
“Not I. I am going into the business for good.”
“That’s what they all say. And I carry them back home on the next boat.”
“You will not carry me back on the next boat, nor on the trip after that
either.” David was losing patience.
“If you knew what’s in store for you you wouldn’t even go ashore when we
get to Manaos; you would come right back home with me on this trip. And
that is what I would advise you to do.”
“Thank you,” and David walked away.
They made short stops at the more important towns along the river, to
deliver mail and unload freight.
The waterfront in these places always teemed with dark-skinned natives.
Long lines of men, stripped to the waist, were carrying bags of produce
to barges moored to the banks, waiting for steamers going downstream.
Groups of other men lounged on the docks or came to the ship in
row-boats, offering fruit for sale.
David was greatly surprised to see the barges of Brazil nuts that were
being transferred to a steamer outward bound. The nuts--he had no idea
there were so many in the world, were handled just like coal. They were
scooped out of the barges in steam shovels and dumped into the hold of
the boat, where they disappeared in the seemingly insatiable, black
void. Many were spilled overboard and others rained on the deck, but no
one cared.
There were cargoes of rubber, too, large, oblong balls, or thick bricks
that must have weighed several hundreds of pounds. But David was to see
enough of them later and under less attractive circumstances.
On the sixth day they reached the junction of the Rivers Negro and
Solimoes.
“This is the end of the Amazon,” Rogers explained as they gazed at the
sweep of the mighty streams.
“The end?” David asked in surprise. “I always thought of the Amazon as a
river three or four thousand miles long.”
“The Amazon proper is only about one thousand miles long. But the
Solimoes continues on a few thousand more and is in reality the Upper
Amazon. Here is a map that shows it.”
He drew a folder out of his pocket and they spread it on the foot of a
deck chair.
“See?” Rogers said, “Manaos is ten miles up the Rio Negro which comes
from the north-west. The Solimoes comes from the west and has its source
near Quito, Peru. It is navigable, too, almost the whole of its length
in boats of some kind. As I said, though, you have seen all of the real
Amazon. Now, are you satisfied?”