In the Wilds of South America — John Stuart Mill — John Shaqi
In the Wilds of South America
John Stuart Mill · en
Practically all work is performed by people of the lower class.
They toil day and night and, in most instances, for very little
remuneration. One may see them engaged in various occupations at all
hours of the day; but during the early hours of the morning, long files
wend their way down the streets with the public market-place as the
point of focus. The huge brick structure is a busy place. It reminds
one of an ants’ nest with its incoming and departing swarms. Inside the
building are rows and heaps of fruit, vegetables, meat, bread, and many
other articles. A motley crowd of women fills the place to overflowing;
each carries a basket, or wooden tray, on her head into which the
purchases are placed, when, after an indefinite amount of bargaining
and haggling, they have been consummated. Invariably each receptacle
contains a curious collection; a number of green and ripe plantains; a
slice of pumpkin; a pepper, garlic, and a tomato; a chunk of meat, and
a papaya. Perhaps there may also be a bunch of _yerba buena_ and some
achiote seeds with which to give a spicy flavor and yellow color to the
soup; but these condiments are, unfortunately, used in such quantities
that a goodly supply is usually kept on hand even when there is no
other food in the house.
The nights are delightful in Cali. A refreshing wind springs up soon
after sundown; the military band plays in the plaza, lights twinkle and
the breeze sighs through the royal palms and orange-trees scattering
broadcast snowy petals and heavy perfume. Only the _gente_ are admitted
into this little fairy-land. Gayly dressed and highly-rouged women,
clothed in the extreme of fashion, parade along the winding walks; but
it is considered in bad taste for them to appear without an escort. The
poorer class, ragged and barefooted, gathers outside the iron fence
and peers through the bars; the children run and play noisily on the
neighboring streets. At last the bells in the cathedral boom the hour
of ten; the band plays the national anthem, when every one stands, the
men with uncovered heads. Then the crowd disperses quietly and orderly.
Soon the town is wrapped in slumber with only the sighing wind and
the occasional shrill blasts of police whistles to disturb the drowsy
solitude.
It was said, that Cali had a population of forty thousand, but that
figure doubtless included the populace of the suburban districts for a
considerable distance. The city is bound to grow, however, on account
of its favorable location in the fertile Cauca Valley, which is one of
the garden spots of all South America.