While waiting for a boat of ample size to take us up the river to
San Fernando de Atabapo, we had time to explore the surrounding country
and to visit the rapids, three in number, which obstruct the river. The
woods are wonderful beyond description; most of the trees are gnarled
and low, as if grown under the guiding hand of a skilful Japanese
gardener, and have the appearance of being hundreds of years old.
Stunted spiny palms rear their crowns here and there, and an occasional
tangle of red-flowered creepers forms an umbrella-like mass on the
tip of some slender, dead stub. The ground is sprinkled with rocks of
fantastic shapes, and some are of enormous size, rising in needle-like,
fluted columns, or as the crumbling tiers of massive walls amid the
curiously distorted vegetation. Along the river are other masses of
rock, but of an entirely different formation; we saw caves and grottos,
and ledges honeycombed with hundreds of pot-holes exposed by the low
water.
Beyond the woods are large areas of cacti, pineapples, and low, thorny
bushes, springing from crevices in the granite ledges. Bird life is
abundant and varied. Quail and red-breasted meadow-larks occupy the
open country, as well as a species of the much-sought tinamou; but
a bird that proved to be the most interesting was a small, obscure
individual called nunlet or swallow-wing. All day long the little
creature, about the size of a king-bird, black above and gray below,
with a saffron band across the throat, sits on the top of some dead
tree, seemingly asleep; but let a fly or an insect of almost any kind
pass along and the bird immediately becomes charged with activity and
darts into the air in hot pursuit, catches its victim, and returns
to its perch with graceful flits of the wings. It remains on the
same twigs for hours, and usually returns day after day. If a stick
is thrown at it the little creature flies away and comes back again
and again. But stupid as the bird appears to be, it is nevertheless
a skilful architect. I have seen them dig perfectly round holes deep
into a bank of sand so loose that the whole mass would crumble at my
touch; while one bird digs with much scratching and working of wings,
the mate sits on a branch near by and gives a twitter of alarm upon
the approach of danger. Some members of the family build a huge pile
of twigs on the entrance to their burrow to hide it. At the end of the
tunnel, a foot or two back, the snow-white eggs are laid upon a thin
layer of straw and feathers.