The highest falls in the river are known as Carretia, and are supposed
to be about thirty feet high; they block the eastern channel of the
river, here divided into two branches by the immense Isla de Raton. In
the western arm the Raudal del Conejo and Raudal Saltinero effectively
block this watercourse to navigation. It is said that the Spaniards
built a road from Atures to the foot of the Cerro Sipapo above the
falls of Carretia, and that the Indians still follow this route
occasionally. If true, this was doubtless a great convenience, as it
did away with the necessity of navigating some fifty-odd miles of the
most difficult and dangerous waterway of the entire river.
A large boat called _piragua_ was obtained at Maipures, and in this
the expedition travelled to San Fernando de Atabapo in six days’ time.
The river is dotted with a number of islands, the largest being the
great Isla de Raton, all heavily forested; the current is frequently
so strong that no headway could be made either by rowing or poling the
heavy boat. At such times a thick cable of the braided fibre of a palm
called _chiquechique_ had to be requisitioned, and everybody walked on
the bank, dragging the boat slowly along. The very first day the man
in the lead ran into a bushmaster fully eight feet long, and narrowly
escaped the vicious thrust of the deadly reptile; a charge of shot soon
put an end to the creature’s menacing career, but the men jumped into
the boat and did not want us to take along the dead snake, or they said
its mate would be sure to follow and inflict a terrible revenge for the
loss of its companion; this kind of superstition is very common among
the natives on the Orinoco. Few of them would dare shoot a jaguar, as
they firmly believe that for every one slain a member of their own
family would be carried away by one of the huge spotted cats.
The country on the Colombian side, from below Atures onward, is level
llano, covered with a good growth of grass, and with an abundance of
water. Some day, no doubt, and in the near future, numerous herds of
cattle will graze in the rich pasturage awaiting them, and another
source will be added to the world’s limited supply of meat. A fringe of
trees grows along the river; among them are the valuable “cachicamo”
and “cedro,” the trunks of which are frequently fashioned into canoes
by the natives.