The Vichada, at this season, had dwindled down until at its mouth it
was not more than a hundred yards wide. We could see a range of hills
far to the west, dimly outlined against the sky and finally fading into
obscurity in the haze; in this direction the river has its origin.
Several Piaroa families had settled near the junction of the two rivers
and built a large hut of palm-leaves and grass. The men lounged in
their hammocks all day long, drinking rum and fighting the clouds of
sand-flies which feasted on their half-naked bodies; at night they
crossed to one of the numerous sand-banks and collected basketsful of
turtle eggs and also as many turtles as their canoes would hold. Some
of their canoes were mere shells, so small that we could never learn
how to negotiate them; no matter how quietly we sat they upset as soon
as pushed out into the current, but an Indian or even two would calmly
squat down in the bottom, take up their paddles, and glide away without
the least concern.
The women were making cassava bread; after the tubers (_Manihot
utilissima_) are ground and the juice has been extracted a thin layer
of the coarse meal is spread on the bottom of a shallow pan about
three feet in diameter; the heat causes the particles to adhere,
forming a tough, round wafer which can be turned without breaking; it
is thoroughly baked on both sides. When cold it hardens, and the huge
slabs are then done up in bundles of twenty to forty each, tied up in
plantain leaves, and in this way it can be kept indefinitely. This is
the bread of the Orinoco, and is always carried as the main article
of provision by Indians and travellers alike; when needed pieces are
broken off, dipped in the river to soak a few minutes and then eaten.
While not particularly appetizing, the slightly acid flavor is not
unpleasant, and if there is time to freshly toast it just before using
it is really quite palatable. Another article commonly prepared by the
Piaroas is the bark of a certain tree, called “tabari.” Long, narrow
strips are cut from the trees and alternately soaked in water and
beaten between rocks until the thin layers separate into tissue-like
sheets; these are used in rolling cigarettes.
One of the granite ledges flanking the river just above the Piaroa
dwelling bears on its surface a number of curious figures, carved in
the face of the rock; unfortunately the water was so low that we passed
far beneath them, and I was unable to make out just what they were; but
the canoemen who had seen them a number of times said they were figures
of men and date back to prehistoric times.