In the Wilds of South America — John Stuart Mill — John Shaqi
In the Wilds of South America
John Stuart Mill · en
Coatimondis, or raccoons, roamed in the woods in small bands, sniffing
in the damp mould and searching for insects; while feeding they uttered
deep grunts, but when frightened they gave a succession of rapid
bird-like chirps. These animals spend a good deal of their time in the
trees, but are almost invariably found on the ground in the daytime;
when pursued they are very pugnacious and it takes an exceptionally
agile dog indeed to avoid being severely torn by the sharp teeth and
claws. In captivity they become very tame, and make nice little pets,
although their mischievous disposition often gets them into trouble.
From Incachaca to Locotál is a distance of only eight miles, but the
scenery along a part of the route is as impressive as any to be found
in the entire Andean chain; perhaps the gorge of the Urubamba, in Peru,
alone equals it in grandeur and awe-inspiring magnificence. The bare,
shattered, and split crags reach many hundred feet above the trail,
and stand in a leaning position so that the tops actually hang over
the narrow passageway as if threatening to topple over at any moment;
below, the steep slope is covered with huge boulders which have fallen
from the towering masses above.
At Locotál there are but half a dozen houses, occupied by Quechua
families who subsist mainly on the profits derived from the sale of
_chicha_. We stopped a few days in a hut owned by a kind-hearted old
woman who gave us permission to use it; next day we found that we were
occupying the schoolroom, and the teacher followed by his half-dozen
ragged scholars came to take possession. He tried to show us how
important it was to have the place at once, but we saw no reason why he
could not conduct his class out under the trees just as well as under
the shelter; this suggestion offended him very much, so greatly to
the delight of the pupils he declared a vacation until the _gringos_
should move on.
_Chicha_, the native drink of Quechuas and Bolivians alike, is a kind
of corn-beer; it is made by grinding maize into a fine meal, after
which the women and children thoroughly masticate a part of it; water
is added to the mass and the thick liquid is boiled several hours,
after which it is poured into jars to ferment; it is of a yellow color,
has a tart, agreeable taste, and is intoxicating.