The forest at Locotál is somewhat taller than at Incachaca, but the
birds are of a similar character. Very abundant and beautiful were the
brilliant cocks-of-the-rock; the bright, orange-red creatures flashed
through the deep green of the forest like fiery comets and, perching
on the low branch of a tree, quietly surveyed their surrounding, or
uttered hoarse, croaking calls. This bird is most conspicuous in its
natural environment. Among the other large birds were green toucans
(_Aulacorhynchus_); the natives hunted them on every possible occasion
for the sake of obtaining the bill, which they use as _remedio_, the
rasping sound made by rubbing the mandibles together being supposed to
be an unfailing cure for epilepsy.
While pursuing our work at Locotál, a man named Quiroga chanced to
pass, and begged that we pay him the honor of stopping at his house
some distance below; it was a charming place, he said, in the very
heart of the wonderful Yungas. We gladly accepted his invitation, and
one morning loaded our outfit on mules and started down the trail. For
a mile there is only a narrow ledge in the face of a rounded mountain
of dark sandstone; a few stunted sprouts, and myriads of orchids
covered with purple blooms, have secured a precarious foothold in
crevices in the glazed surface; hundreds of feet below, but invisible,
the river tears through a narrow gorge. At one point a strip of the
shelf upon which we travelled had entirely disappeared; we could not
see the bottom of the canyon--its depth was too great--but there were
evidences we could not mistake, telling us the history of the gap in
the trail. Vultures hovered over the spot and perched on the scant
vegetation, and from below came an overpowering stench. What more was
needed to reveal the fact that the missing section of trail, in its
mad dash through space, had taken with it the pack-train of mules, and
probably the men attending them, which chanced to be passing at the
time.
Miguelito is only three miles below Locotál, and consists of three or
four huts in the centre of a grassy clearing. The Quechuas who live
there are friendly, and one may be sure of a welcome for a night’s stop.
At five thousand five hundred feet the forest becomes taller and the
trees attain a greater diameter. The vegetation of the subtropic zone
reaches its highest development at this altitude. After crossing a
ridge six thousand seven hundred feet high, the trail descends a long
slope into the Yungas, properly known as the Yungas of Cochabamba. At
the base of the ridge, and shortly before entering the cultivated area,
we crossed the dry, narrow bed of a stream which was filled with rocks
bearing the imprints of leaves, and also fossil shells.