In the Wilds of South America — John Stuart Mill — John Shaqi
In the Wilds of South America
John Stuart Mill · en
Yungas is the name given to the fertile mountain slopes which have
been cleared of forest and cultivated; it stretches along the sides
of the Rio Yungas for a number of miles, and huts dot the roadside
at frequent intervals. When we visited the region in June only the
Indian caretakers lived in the habitations, the coca, which is the
principal product, having been collected a short time before, and the
_propietarios_ having gone back to Cochabamba. The owners visit their
plantations three times a year, supervise the picking and packing of
the leaves and, after a month, return to Cochabamba to sell the drug
and live on the proceeds until the next harvest.
After spending an hour in questioning the occupants of the various
houses which we passed, we succeeded in locating the house to which we
had been invited. It was a low, one-room board structure, open at both
ends, and with wide entrances on each side, situated in the centre
of a large banana-field. An Indian, so old that he could hardly walk,
lived in the hovel and refused to admit us; however, we flourished our
letter of introduction from the owner of the premises, took possession,
and remained a week. When we left, the aged tenant implored us to
remain, as we had daily provided him with all the game he could eat,
and had provided him with some medicines that he greatly needed.
The climate at this season, June, was most trying. Although the
elevation is only three thousand five hundred feet, the whole region
was covered with fog each night, and the cold and damp penetrated
everything; during a part of the year the weather is good, and then
life in the Yungas is more bearable. We had a trying time at Señor
Quiroga’s hut, and while the pleasure of investigating a new region
is always intense, our joy at leaving was in this particular instance
vastly greater.
There is no flat valley along the river, which is of considerable size,
and all cultivation is done on the steep mountainsides. Coca is planted
in terraces and occupies the greatest acreage; then there are red
bananas, plantains, guavas, and sugar-cane.
The fauna of the country seems to represent a transition zone. There
are birds typical of the higher country, and others which are common
lower down; also, a number found at approximately this altitude only.
Near the house, and on the edge of the banana-plantation, was a tall,
isolated tree. Flocks of birds, in their flight from one side of the
canyon to the other, would invariably alight in its branches for a few
minutes’ rest. There were many brilliantly colored little tanagers
(_Tanagra_) which came to the tree in considerable numbers and chirped
and quarrelled as they flitted about examining the leaves for insects,
or reached out to pick the small fruits with which the tree was
covered; one day not less than seven species of these birds visited
this resort within a short time.
[Illustration: An Indian hut in the Yungas of Cochabamba.]