Numerous huts of flimsy construction are scattered along the entire
twenty miles or more of cultivated slopes; each has a fenced-in area
paved with flat stones upon which coca leaves are dried. We stopped at
a number of these dwellings in an attempt to buy fruit or vegetables,
but unfortunately the men were all away working in the fields, and any
one who has attempted to purchase anything from the average Quechua
squaw knows how hopeless a task it is. Although they may have a
superabundance of the article desired, they seem to take great delight
in refusing to sell anything to a stranger; then the only method to
follow is to take what is needed, offer a fair price for it and pass
on, leaving them in the midst of their wild rantings; the men are
easier to deal with.
The _peons_, and the _patrón_ as well, stopped at each hut where the
white flag announced that _chicha_ was for sale, and attempted to drink
enough to last them until their return; after their money gave out they
left articles of clothing in payment for the drinks. It was therefore
a great relief when the last abode of the intoxicating beverage had
been left behind, and we plunged into the wilderness. Immediately
after leaving the Yungas we ascended a precipitous slope, the top of
which was seven hundred feet above the surrounding country, and then
descended on the other side until the elevation was only two thousand
feet; here the forest was more tropical in character, and some of the
trees, especially the cottonwoods, reached a height of one hundred and
fifty feet, and measured twenty-five feet through the buttressed roots
at the base.
The day after leaving the Yungas we reached the most dangerous part of
the whole trail. After crossing a number of steep, high ridges, we came
to an abrupt slope, the side of which is seared by a huge gash where
the treacherous white clay keeps sliding constantly into the river,
many hundreds of feet below. Each caravan desiring to pass must first
cut a ledge in the moving mass of soft, muddy earth, and then hurriedly
lead the mules across, one at a time, before the newly made trail is
obliterated. The spot is very appropriately named _Sal-si-Puedes_ (pass
if you can), for any one succeeding in crossing this slide is very apt
to possess the ingenuity required to negotiate the remainder of the
trail.