That night we made camp early on the banks of the Rio San Antonio,
called _Chuspipascana_ by the Indians, which means Mosquito River. The
altitude of the site is only one thousand eight hundred feet above
sea-level. The river was a clear, rapid stream one hundred feet wide,
flowing through a rock-strewn bed a quarter of a mile across. Swarms
of black flies, sand-flies, and other stinging or biting insects
immediately came out to greet us. Birds were very abundant. In addition
to the jays, ant-wrens and manakins, which remained in the forest,
flocks of parrots and toucans flew across the open spaces. One of the
most unusual occurrences was the great flocks of a new species of giant
oriole; there were not less than one thousand of these birds in a
single flock, and they roamed almost everywhere, coming close to camp
to inspect the tents, and to discuss them in hoarse cries of curiosity
or resentment. They were beautiful creatures, of a deep chestnut color
with light olive-green head and neck; the face is devoid of plumage and
of a flesh-color, while the tip of the bill is deep orange. The flesh
is highly esteemed by the natives and we found it quite palatable.
As soon as the cargoes had been neatly placed in a pile and covered
with a tarpaulin to keep them dry the _peons_ cooked their supper;
this consisted of a thick soup made of corn-meal and _charque_ (dried
beef). They had a meal in the morning and another at night; during the
long walk throughout the day they chewed coca leaves. The mules were
turned loose to shift for themselves, but as plenty of wild cane grows
near the rivers, they had an abundance of food. One of the animals
carried a bell tied to its neck, and the others would seldom stray out
of hearing of the constant clanging. In the morning the men easily
located the bell-mule and led it back to camp, the others following in
single file. Should one be missing, which was a rare occurrence, it
was only necessary to take the bell and shake it vigorously; this soon
brought the stray member to the spot.
The remainder of the journey was through the heavily forested lowland;
the last of the mountain ridges had been left behind.