During the dry season the caravans follow the courses of streams as
much as possible. The water is low, and the wide, rocky margins serve
as roads. This is far from being easy on the mules; the animals go
stumbling and slipping along, but a good many miles are cut from the
total length of the journey. Streams are encountered with frequency,
and as one penetrates farther into the interior they become wider
and deeper. We crossed not less than six fords in a single day, all
between two hundred and three hundred feet wide, the water averaging
from three to four feet deep. Although the current is strong, the
mules are accustomed to this kind of work and usually manage to cross
safely, often stopping in the deepest, swiftest spot to unconcernedly
take a drink. Occasionally, however, one of the animals slips on a
moss-covered boulder and falls; then it is a difficult matter to
assist the drowning creature to his feet, as the swift water may roll
him over, and the weight of the pack keeps him down. In any event,
the least result of such an accident is the thorough saturation of
everything in the pack, and this means a day’s loss of time while
the soaked effects are spread out to dry. During the rainy season
streams rise with startling rapidity, and parties have often been
forced to camp on the river-bank many days until the water went down.
To turn back is hopeless, as the last stream crossed is just as high as
the one ahead; there is nothing to be done but wait.
[Illustration: The expedition in the Cuchicancha Pass.]