From Samaipata we turned southward toward Vallegrande. It required two
days’ travel to reach that town, over the same monotonous, broken,
barren country ranging in elevation from five thousand three hundred
feet to eight thousand two hundred and fifty feet. There are a few
trees near some of the small watercourses, but as a whole the country
is unproductive. At Vallegrande, however, the ground is not so sterile.
The town also is more attractive, and the more cheerful environment
is reflected in the dispositions of the people. I was particularly
glad to find that some of the inhabitants showed traits of character
unmistakably alien to the average Bolivian, and it did not require a
great effort to trace them directly to the wholesome influence exerted
by the American College at Cochabamba. It was forcibly demonstrated
that at least some of the students of the Cochabamba Institute
introduce into their houses and home towns the admirable precepts of
temperance, morality, and sincerity with which they have become imbued.
Travel in the highlands of Bolivia presents a succession of
difficulties, chief of which is the scarcity of mules and also the lack
of forage.
There is no natural pasturage, so the animals must subsist entirely
on oats grown by the Indians in irrigated areas. The cost of keeping
animals is prohibitive; instead of the one or two cents a day charged
in the settled parts of Colombia, one is compelled to pay fifty cents
or more. We should probably have been forced to remain in Vallegrande
a long time, had it not been for one Señor Villazón who provided the
pack-mules for the rest of the journey to Sucre.
The first day’s ride took us to the village of Pucará. A part of the
distance had been over a grass-covered plateau ten thousand feet high,
cut in places by deep ravines filled with light woods. The second day
we faced the unpleasant prospect of having to cross the Rio Grande.
The few natives we met said that the river was probably very high and
were inclined to be pessimistic concerning our ability to get across;
they also advised us to return to Aiquile, near Mizque, as the stream
is narrow and spanned by a bridge at that point; but as this meant
retracing our steps the greater part of the way, we could not consider
the suggestion.