Birds were not quite so numerous as at the Pilcomayo, but we found
several forms new to us. Among them was a large, white-fronted
parrakeet (_Myiopsitta luchsi_) that we saw in no other place. It
banded in flocks of ten to fifty and seemed to prefer the fruit-trees
near the house. A species of humming-bird built nests in doorways and
suspended under the thatched roofs of houses, often in the midst of
a colony of swallows (_Atticora_). Tinamou were not uncommon in the
dry ravines and provided a welcome change from the goat-flesh which is
the staple meat of the people and the only kind we could purchase; the
latter animals were killed when very young (about the size of a cat),
and we could never become enthusiastic over this, locally considered,
great delicacy.
In a region such as the country around Pulqué, there are few available
nesting-sites, and nests are very conspicuous objects when placed in
a cactus or thorny bush; however, the sharp thorns and spines with
which they are surrounded protect them, alike from predatory animals
and humans. The disused mud nests of oven-birds are collected as
needed and made into a poultice that is supposed to cure stomachache.
Judging by the quantity they gathered, this ailment must be of frequent
occurrence. A bird of the wood-hewer family (_Upucerthia_) excavated
burrows in banks and deposited two white eggs in a small, feather-lined
nest placed in a roomy chamber at the end of the tunnel.
The _señora_ at whose _rancho_ we stopped complained that tiger-cats
were killing her chickens; so one afternoon I set a steel trap at the
base of a near-by stone wall, baiting it with a dead bird. I had not
gone a dozen paces from the spot when the trap sprung with a loud
twang, securely imprisoning the much-sought culprit. The cat’s greed
had overcome its discretion, at which we rejoiced, for it made a
desirable addition to our collection. On another occasion one of these
beautiful animals bounded out from under the roots of a huge tree and
seized a bird as I was stooping to pick it up--and made a clean getaway
to its hiding-place with the spoils.
Our hosts on the Cachimayo were awaiting us, in order that we might
be present at the ushering in of the “month of baths,” as December is
called in this part of Bolivia. Whether or not they thought we were in
need of the daily ablutions, I am unable to say; but this I do know,
that we shocked the good people on numerous occasions by having a swim
at every possible opportunity, even if the month was not in keeping
with local traditions.
Peras Pampa is an immense estate on both sides of the Cachimayo, and
but an hour’s trip by motor from Sucre. We spent a delightful ten days
amid pleasant surroundings, living in a comfortable bungalow, and
passing the evenings at the _casa grande_ where the elite of Sucre’s
society gathered for music, games, and dancing.