The grounds were a succession of orchards, fields, and vineyards.
Scores of Indians lived and worked on the place, cultivating the
ground, building stone fences, and taking care of the stock. At night
they met and played very well on reed flutes of various sizes, each
musician taking a separate part, so that the combined effort was
somewhat like that produced by a well-organized band. Their favorite
piece was “Red-Wing”--apparently learned from a phonograph record.
The evening parties were always enjoyable affairs. They began with a
sumptuous dinner--including several kinds of wine; then a series of
eight or ten well-chosen courses, followed by liqueurs and smoking. The
women did not smoke.
After that there were charades, story-telling, music, singing, dancing,
and perhaps a walk _en masse_ in the moonlit grounds, through arbors
of honeysuckle and other flowering vines and over paths bordered with
hedges of roses. There were always more refreshments just before the
party broke up at midnight. All the Bolivians we met at Peras Pampa
were charming, and we heartily regretted that our time for combined
work and play was not unlimited.
The majority of the people who formed the gay evening crowd lived in
separate cottages on the estate--the guests of the owner. Each day
they repaired faithfully to the river for a dip, although the water
was usually very muddy, and there was about an even chance whether one
would emerge without yesterday’s coat of grime or with an additional
one. December is chosen for this purpose because it is the warmest and
most pleasant month of the year.
The time allotted us for work in Bolivia had nearly expired. We had
thoroughly enjoyed our lengthy sojourn in the republic, and look
forward to revisiting it in the future. Our schedule called for rather
extensive work in the Argentine, so, after a great deal of difficulty,
we succeeded in collecting a caravan of riding and pack mules for
the ride of over three hundred miles to La Quiaca, on the Argentine
frontier. Ordinarily the trip from Sucre to La Quiaca should not be
undertaken on mule-back. One should go to Potosi in one day’s time,
utilizing the semiweekly motor-car service. A railroad connects the
latter place with a small station a few miles this side of Tupiza, and
from this point one may reach La Quiaca in two days by carriage. During
the rainy season, however, both automobile and carriage service are
suspended; and the difficulty of twice securing mules on which to cover
the two stretches of road between railway terminals and the delays and
other inconveniences are so great that we decided to travel the entire
distance with a pack-train. This also gave us an opportunity to see the
country.