There being no United States Consul in Tucuman, I appealed to the
British Consul for assistance. He very kindly spent many hours calling
on various officials, from the governor down, explaining our mission
and asking that the small matter be arranged for us. Our quest seemed
hopeless until one day a copy of one of the large daily newspapers
arrived from Buenos Aires, and in this I found an account of how
representatives of Latin-American countries who were attending the
scientific congress in Washington had been received and entertained at
the American Museum of Natural History during their visit to New York.
Armed with this clipping I again invaded the _palacio_. Ordinarily I
should not have done such a thing, as there are many reasons why it
is not commendable, but the situation was desperate and called for
aggressive tactics. Suffice it to say that this visit was the last. A
mild comparison of how their people were treated in our country, and
the difficulties we had in theirs was sufficient, and when I left the
building the permit was in my pocket.
The Sierra de Tucuman, a range of comparatively low mountains, rises
directly west of the city. This we found to be covered with a growth
of tall, dense forest, so we lost no time in moving there. We left the
city by rail and proceeded southwestward to a small station called San
Pablo, a short distance away. This is in the heart of the sugar region
and vast fields of cane stretch on either side of the railway. Here and
there the tall brick chimneys of a refinery rise above the waving green
fields, and wide, deep canals divide the cultivated areas into sections
and supply water for irrigation.
A good cart-road leads from San Pablo up the side of the mountain to
the very summit, four thousand six hundred feet high, where the little
town of Villa Nougués is situated. This settlement is a favorite resort
of the wealthier class of people who come up from Tucuman to spend the
summer months in pleasant châteaux, thereby avoiding the heat of the
lower country.
The view from the top of the range is superb; the country to the east
is perfectly level, and is laid out in symmetrical fields of cane as
far as the eye can see. A small, muddy river, threading its way through
the ocean of green divides it into two sections and vanishes into the
horizon in a haze of purple mist. To the west stands the stern Andean
chain, barren and precipitous, its summit hidden in banks of cold, gray
clouds.
We made a first camp in the forest below Villa Nougués, at an altitude
of four thousand feet. From the very first day we had heard the shrill
little call of a bird which we attributed to the much-coveted tapacola
(_Scytalopus_) we were looking for; but the elusive creature always
remained in concealment among the ferns and mosses and not once did we
get a glimpse of it. Then we secured ox-carts and moved to the other
side of the mountain, where, we were told, hunting was not so difficult.