Birds were not abundant, the fall migrations having left the forest
almost deserted. The few species which remained, however, such as
wood-hewers, thrushes, tanagers, and jays, were plentiful, and
several kinds of humming-birds added life and color to the sombre
green of the vegetation. After many days we succeeded in tracing
the mysterious chirp to its source, and found, not the bird we were
seeking, but a dainty little wood-wren of the shyest possible nature.
The minute, secretive creature seemed to spend its entire time among
the buttresses, roots, and moss-draped undergrowth, where no ray of
sunlight ever penetrated to dispel the chill and semidarkness, or give
a touch of warmth to the soggy mould. Its glimpses of daylight must
be brief indeed, and at infrequent intervals. We had come to the
mountains in a state of enthusiasm and expectancy, for here it seemed
we should succeed in ending our long quest for the tapacola. As the
days passed, thrilling excitement gave way to exasperation, and finally
disappointment alone remained to fill the void created by the flight of
the other emotions.
We returned to Tucuman for a brief time, and then struck for the forest
farther south. This time we left the railroad at a station called
Acherál two and one-half hours from Tucuman, and camped in the forest
at the foot of the ridge. Again we were doomed to disappointment. Birds
were more abundant than at Villa Nougués, but the tapacola was not
forthcoming. There were, however, numerous other interesting species.
Pigmy woodpeckers (_Picumnus_) selected the patches of high brush and
second-growth woods just without the edge of the forest proper. They
are little larger than a good-sized humming-bird, dark or black above,
white underneath, and have a red cap. Their industrious hammering
always advertised the presence of a pair as they hopped quickly along
the trunks and branches, tapping for worms or excavating a nesting-site.
The woods were undermined with tunnels made by the queer _tuco-tuco_,
or _oculto_ (_Ctenomys_), a species of which we had come in contact
with in Brazil. We set a steel trap in one of the subterranean runways,
carefully covering with a log the opening we had made; soon a series of
low grunts emanated from the spot, and we found a fine, large specimen
of the strange rodent safely held by the steel jaws.
Bottle flies were so numerous as to prove a most disagreeable pest.
Blankets, clothing, food, and specimens alike were covered with “blow”
if left exposed for but a few minutes. We were lucky in possessing
enough netting with which to rig up covers for everything, but even
then numbers gained entrance, and we had to clean the infested articles
frequently by passing them over a fire or by scraping and brushing.