Next, we again headed for the Chaco, having as our goal a station
called Avia Terai, about half-way to Resistencia on the Paraguay
River. The train was packed with Italian home-seekers; they were a
noisy, quarrelsome lot. Many of them were drunk or ill, and so many
unsavory things were occurring constantly in the coaches (there were no
compartment-cars), that we remained in the buffet-car. An aged bishop,
accompanied by two priests, were fellow passengers. The prelate got
off at each stop to bless the crowds that had collected to see him,
and then as many as possible knelt to kiss his ring before the train
pulled out. After the trio returned to their table, the two priests
promptly fell asleep while their venerable superior read from a small
prayer-book. I wondered why he tolerated such sleepy, uninteresting
companions. At midnight we reached Añatuya and changed to another
train. This place was one of wild confusion. There were mountains of
luggage piled on the platform, and mobs of excited people rushing
wildly about in vain attempts to locate their belongings. I was alarmed
over the safety of our own possessions, so stationed the faithful
Antonio near the door of the baggage-car with instructions to let me
know when unloading began; we then secured _peons_ to immediately carry
the trunks and bags to our train, thus avoiding their being dumped on
the huge piles, and perhaps lost.
In the early morning we reached Quimilí, at which place a siding
branches off to Tintina; most of the immigrants went in this direction.
The country was all flat and covered with grass. Later on clumps of
forest appeared which grew larger and denser as we went farther east.
There were numerous stops but no towns of any importance. At 2.30
P. M., the train halted at Avia Terai, and we were soon encamped in the
rear of one of the two huts comprising that station.
About all we could see from our abode was an immense area covered
with tall weeds, surrounded by dense forest. Sand-flies, called
_polvoriños_, filled the air like flecks of dust so that we had to keep
a smudge going most of the time. The people said there was a great deal
of malaria in the neighborhood, and one look into their faces was ample
to substantiate the statement. Usually it was very hot; it rained most
of the time, but occasionally the nights were very cold--an altogether
disagreeable combination of weather.
One of our trunks, containing all the instruments, had mysteriously
disappeared from the baggage-car, so we had only a pocket-knife with
which to work; but, by putting in longer hours we managed to keep up to
our average daily number in preparing specimens. We gave the conductor
of a passing train a tip of several _pesos_, and on his next run he
brought us the missing trunk, saying that he had found it at a station
a few miles below.