In the Wilds of South America — John Stuart Mill — John Shaqi
In the Wilds of South America
John Stuart Mill · en
It was impossible to explore the country as thoroughly as we should
have liked on account of the almost incessant rain. When the downpour
did stop, which was at dusk, flocks of large, white-bellied night-hawks
appeared and circled above the grass, catching insects. They were
beautiful creatures, and always came back to the same restricted areas
to feed on small black beetles that flew up in great numbers from
the grass. As darkness settled over the Chaco the flocks suddenly
dispersed and they disappeared singly in all directions. We found them
spending the days in open places--out in the hot sun or rain. The
railroad-track, or small plots where there was not even grass, were the
favorite sleeping-sites chosen, and sometimes two or three were found
together.
After a week we returned over the route we had come to a station called
General Pinedo. This was a new settlement and several dozen board huts
were being constructed on both sides of the track. Here there were
seemingly limitless stretches of fine pampas with occasional small
clumps of red quebracho-woods. Numbers of cattle grazed in the rich
grass, and this place was much more attractive than the one we had just
left. As might be supposed, the fauna was typical of the open country
and included an abundance of short-eared and burrowing owls. The latter
sat on fence-posts or on the mounds near their burrows all day long; at
night they became very active and flew back and forth over the fields
grabbing up beetles and small rodents with their feet. Their long,
tremulous screeches pierced the darkness all night long.
On Sunday all the men congregated at the two rum-shops and tested their
capacities for strong drink. Often the day ended in a series of brawls
when knives and machetes were plied freely--once with fatal result to
one of the _compadres_. I asked one of the guards what would be done
with the murderer, who had promptly been arrested. He said that if he
could give two hundred _pesos_ to the _commisario_ and ten to each of
the guards, the matter would be dropped. Later I was told that the
matter had been “fixed up” satisfactorily, but of course could not
verify this.
June 14 found us in the village of Lavalle, in the heart of Argentina’s
desert regions. When the train from Tucuman pulled out, leaving
ourselves and our belongings on the station platform, we at once
began to regret that we had come at all. The place looked decidedly
uninviting. There was only the small cluster of adobe hovels, while
all around stretched the cheerless waste of sandy desert. That there
could be any considerable amount of wild life in the region seemed
impossible; but, as we soon discovered to our unbounded delight, it was
only one of the instances where first impressions are deceptive.