Our first care was to find a place where we could put up as we had
come prepared to remain a week; so we inquired of the station agent if
there was a _posada_ in town. He promptly said that there was none.
Then we called on the judge, to whom we had a letter of introduction.
He took us to the home of a kind-hearted old woman who immediately
agreed to give us a room and board; and here let me insert that in
no place in all South America were we treated with more courtesy and
consideration than in the home of this venerable old woman, during the
entire month we finally remained. Learning of our mission, her three
daughters became very enthusiastic and plied us with information about
the country, and the vast numbers of animals to be found within a short
distance of their very doors. They told us that the country was teeming
with vizcachas--large rodents that weigh up to twenty-five pounds and
come out of their burrows only at night. We wanted to go out and hunt
them at once but, unfortunately, there was no moonlight during the
first part of our stay, so it was impossible to go in quest of them. We
therefore devoted our time looking for other things.
Investigation showed that the country was not quite so barren as it had
at first appeared. A short walk took us into a region where there was
a dense growth of cacti and thorny shrubbery--so thick in fact that
it was almost impossible to get through; many of the former plants
were in bloom, the spiny columns being covered with large white, waxy
flowers. Here and there a native hut adorned the top of a small rise
in the landscape, and near by we were sure to see the inevitable flock
of goats nibbling on the leaves of acacia and mimosa, and guarded by
bad-tempered dogs. A little distance away from each hovel was a pond
of considerable size; these fill up during the short rainy season and
their contents are used to water the stock and to irrigate the small
patches of corn and potatoes.