In the Wilds of South America — John Stuart Mill — John Shaqi
In the Wilds of South America
John Stuart Mill · en
The spot where the passengers had been landed was an open, treeless
plain with not a shelter in sight. At first the heat of the sun was
insufferable; then it began to rain as we had never seen it rain
before. No one had a poncho, so there was nothing to do but stand
quietly and endure the drenching downpour.
When the sand had been dug away the launch, suddenly freed, shot
down-stream a half mile before a landing could be effected. This of
course necessitated a long tramp through deep mud and tall, wet grass,
which added to the cheerlessness of the luckless, half-drowned victims
of backward methods of transportation. The banks were as steep as ever,
but a capybara runway, resembling a giant muskrat slide, had been
discovered, and down this we slid, one at a time, into the arms of two
negroes who acted as a back-stop below.
The delay prevented the launch from reaching Buga, so as soon as
darkness settled, she was tied up for the night. A great tree-trunk,
embedded in the sand with huge branches swaying high above the water,
lay near by. We swung our hammocks between the sturdy limbs, covered
them with mosquito-nets, and spent a miserable night; those who
attempted to sleep aboard had a harder time of it by far.
We were off with the first streak of dawn, startling flocks of muscovy
ducks and herons from near the banks. A faint blue mist was rising
slowly from the water, and the air was chill and damp. The mantle of
silence that falls over tropical South America at nightfall had not yet
been lifted. For some little time we glided on, farther and farther, it
seemed, into a great vacuity that led to some vaguely defined sanctuary
of everlasting peace and oblivion. Then, without warning, a sound so
terrible rent the vast solitude that it seemed as if some demon of the
wilds were taking a belated revenge for the few hours of quiet in which
the earth had rejoiced.
At first there was a series of low, gruff roars that would have done
credit to the most savage of lions, and made the very air tremble; but
this was not all. Added to the majestic frightfulness of the jungle
king’s voice was a quality of hate and treachery, of unfathomed rage
and malicious bitterness. Then followed in quick succession a number
of high-pitched, long-drawn wails or howls of tremulous quality
that gradually died, ending with a few guttural barks. This uncanny
performance lasted a number of minutes; but having perpetrated this
outrage upon a heretofore peaceful world, the weird chorus suddenly
stopped.