In the Wilds of South America — John Stuart Mill — John Shaqi
In the Wilds of South America
John Stuart Mill · en
People of the lower class attribute peculiar powers to the sloth. They
say that when one of the animals finds it necessary to descend to the
ground it is unable to climb back to its lofty perch; but a friendly
cloud is always hovering near by which envelops it and carries it back
to any desired station in the tree-tops. In some localities they also
attribute the wild call of the giant goatsucker to the sloth. The only
time I heard the latter utter any sound was when a mother called to her
young that was a few feet away; she gave a fairly loud ‘peep’ and her
offspring at once went to her.
After a time our work at Squirrel Woods was completed, so, much to the
relief of the inhospitable couple, we left the place and returned to
Salento, where we had better fortune and were well cared for by one
Colonel Martinez; his wife had come from Bogotá, was a well-educated
woman, and, what interested us more just then, was a splendid cook. The
family conducted a fairly good _posada_ and shop and had various other
business interests, including several worthless mining claims along
streams flowing into the Quindio River just below. A few excavations
had been made into the hillsides; the largest was known as _La Mina del
Gallo_ and had yielded hundreds of tons of rocks and earth; but as not
a speck of the elusive yellow metal they so eagerly sought had been
forthcoming, the mine had been abandoned, and owls and bats inhabited
the dark tunnel. The greater part of the mining population had
deserted Salento for a place about ten miles distant, where extensive
cinnabar-fields had been discovered. They expected to acquire fabulous
riches extracting the mercury from the deposits. Some Englishmen headed
by a man named Lloyd-Owen were also interested in the enterprise, but I
learned later that the prospect failed.
At dusk we occasionally had a brief view of the Nevado del Tolima far
to the east. The snow-capped summit is over eighteen thousand feet
high, but we could never see more than a small portion of it on account
of the ridges that surrounded it. At night the snowy dome gleamed
white and frosty beneath a brilliant moon, and chill winds blew from
the frigid heights and roared through the town. The paramos of Ruiz
and Isabel, composed of high, cold valleys, plateaus, and snow-covered
peaks are south of the Tolima. We straightway resolved to visit that
region, and as the rainy season with its severe electrical storms was
fast approaching, no time was lost in starting on the expedition. My
experience on the Cerro Munchique was still too fresh to make me want
to duplicate it or expose any other members of the party to a similar
ordeal.