If we remained close to the stream we were sure to surprise herons
of several species, and black ibises wading in the shallow water. A
species of ani (_Crotophaga_) fluttered in the overhanging bushes; they
were awkward though beautiful creatures, the size of a blue jay, with
brilliant, black iridescent plumage; the mouth was pure white, while
the eyes were of a pea-green color.
If our tramp led to the heavy forest, the character of the birds
changed. Giant orioles (_Ostinops_), grackles, and chachalacas always
remained near the border of the taller growth, and toucans in flocks
seemed to prefer the protection of the more inaccessible cover.
[Illustration: The town of Valdivia.]
[Illustration: The Cauca River at Puerto Valdivia.]
The forest is magnificent, and is composed largely of ceibas with
thick, white trunks and wide-spreading tops. Many _tagua_, or ivory-nut
palms, grow beneath the tall trees; their fruit is one of the important
articles of export from the Magdalena Valley and, during August
and September, many thousands of bags are shipped down the river to
Barranquilla. Wild life, however, was comparatively scarce in the
forest proper, with the single exception of mosquitoes, which were
present in unlimited swarms, even in the daytime; and small troops of
brown marmosets that showed themselves at rare intervals.
While crossing the clearing one day a flock of blue and yellow macaws
passed overhead; we needed a pair for the collection, so I took a
quick shot at the birds as they flew by; however, I succeeded only in
wounding one of their number, which flew to the ground in a long slant
and alighted so far away that it was useless to try to follow. On
reaching home at noon, I was greatly surprised to find the bird perched
on a ladder in the very house we were occupying. It had dropped in the
yard, and having been seen by some children, they tried to catch it,
whereupon it took refuge indoors and kept them at bay with its angry
screams and attempts to bite.
The evenings at Malena were fully as profitable as the mornings.
We always spent a pleasant hour or two at dusk, walking along the
railroad. Pools of water had collected in the hollows where earth
for the road-bed had been excavated, and many water-birds came there
nightly to fish or catch frogs. Great blue herons, bitterns, and
occasionally a cormorant or anhinga were surprised at their nocturnal
feasts. When we returned after dark we started numerous goatsuckers,
which had settled in the open lane to catch insects and to sing; this
habit of resorting to open places, especially trails and roadways, has
earned for them the name _guardacamino_ (road-guard) among the natives.