Malena was such an unusually interesting place that we expected
to remain there several weeks; but, unfortunately, an epidemic of
dysentery had invaded the Magdalena Valley, and the village was soon
writhing in the throes of this fatal disease. Sickness and death in the
family of our hosts made it necessary for us to continue on our way.
It requires exactly six hours to reach Cisneros, the end of the
railroad, from Puerto Berrio. The altitude of the terminus is three
thousand seven hundred feet above sea-level, and as one approaches it
the heavy forest gradually disappears, to be replaced with a lower
growth of brush and bushes; finally the hilltops are barren.
At Cisneros one may secure riding-animals, a carriage, or a motor-car,
according to the mode of travel preferred, for the short ride across
the ridge to Botero, from whence the journey may again be resumed
by train. The road is splendid, and as the highest point, called La
Quiebra, is only five thousand four hundred and twenty-five feet up, a
canter on a spirited horse across the divide is most enjoyable.
Botero is very similar to Cisneros. There are two small hotels where
the traveller may rest in comfort until the train leaves for Medellin,
which is at 4.30 P.M.
Numerous villages are scattered along the railroad, which follows
closely the course of the Medellin River. The country is green and
apparently fertile. Thickets of wild cane grow near the stream, and
the valley is dotted with clumps of tall, slender willows; so dense is
the latter growth in some parts of the region that it forms groves and
woods.
Two and a half hours after leaving Botero the train arrived at
Medellin. Medellin is the third largest city of Colombia, and boasts
of a population of seventy thousand. The city is not modern but very
picturesque, and lies in a depression almost completely surrounded
by mountains. We were fortunate enough to make the acquaintance of
the American consul, Mr. H. B. Meyerheim, who rendered the expedition
invaluable service during our entire stay in Antioquia.
The people of the state differ from the Colombians living in other
parts of the country in that they possess more initiative and business
ability; and for this reason they are frequently referred to as the
Jews of Colombia. Some authorities go so far as to assert that they are
really descendants of a colony of Jews that settled there many years
ago. For this belief there seems to be very little foundation. The fact
that the climate is bracing and that it requires a greater amount of
work to gain a living in the semiarid country probably accounts for the
increased degree of energy displayed by the inhabitants.