In Wicklow and West Kerry — John Stuart Mill — John Shaqi
In Wicklow and West Kerry
John Stuart Mill · en
I came out to-day, a holiday, to the Great Blasket Island with a
schoolmaster and two young men from the village, who were coming for
the afternoon only. The day was admirably clear, with a blue sea and
sky, and the voyage in the long canoe--I had not been in one for
two or three years--gave me indescribable enjoyment. We passed
Dunmore Head, and then stood Out nearly due west towards the Great
Blasket itself, the height of the mountains round the bay and the
sharpness of the rocks making the place singularly different from
the sounds about Aran, where I had last travelled in a curagh. As
usual, three men were rowing--the man I have come to stay with, his
son, and a tall neighbour, all dressed in blue jerseys, homespun
trousers and shirts, and talking in Irish only, though my host could
speak good English when he chose to. As we came nearer the island,
which seemed to rise like a mountain straight out of the sea, we
could make out a crowd of people in their holiday clothes standing
or sitting along the brow of the cliff watching our approach, and
just beyond them a patch of cottages with roofs of tarred felt. A
little later we doubled into a cove among the rocks, where I landed
at a boat slip, and then scrambled up a steep zig-zag pathway to the
head of the cliff where the people crowded round us and shook hands
with the men who had come with me.
This cottage where I am to stay is one of the highest of the group,
and as we passed up to it through little paths among the cottages
many white, wolfish-looking dogs came out and barked furiously. My
host had gone on in front with my bag, and when I reached his
threshold he came forward and shook hands with me again, with a
finished speech of welcome. His eldest daughter, a young married
woman of about twenty, who manages the house, shook hands with me
also, and then, without asking if we were hungry, began making us
tea in a metal teapot and frying rashers of bacon. She is a small,
beautifully-formed woman, with brown hair and eyes--instead of the
black hair and blue eyes that are usually found with this type in
Ireland--and delicate feet and ankles that are not common in these
parts, where the woman's work is so hard. Her sister, who lives in
the house also, is a bonny girl of about eighteen, full of humour
and spirits.