In Wicklow and West Kerry — John Stuart Mill — John Shaqi
In Wicklow and West Kerry
John Stuart Mill · en
I have made my way round the foot of Dingle Bay and up the south
coast to a cottage where I often lodge. As I was resting in a ditch
some time in the afternoon, on a lonely mountain road, a little girl
came along with a shawl over her head. She stopped in front of me
and asked me where I was going, and then after a little talk:
'Well, man, let you come,' she said; 'I'm going your road as well as
you.' I got up and we started. When I got tired of the hill I
mounted, and she ran along beside me for several miles, till we fell
in with some people cutting turf and she stopped to talk to them.
Then for a while my road ran round an immense valley of magnificent
rich turf bog, with mountains all round, and bowls where hidden
lakes were lying bitten out of the cliffs.
As I was resting again on a bridge over the Behy where Diarmuid
caught salmon with Grania, a man stopped to light his pipe and talk
to me. 'There are three lakes above,' he said, 'Coomacarra,
Coomaglaslaw and Coomasdhara; the whole of this place was in a great
state in the bad times. Twenty years ago they sent down a 'mergency
man to lodge above by the lake and serve processes on the people,
but the people were off before him and lay abroad in the heather.
Then, in the course of a piece, a night came, with great rain out of
the heavens, and my man said: "I'll get them this night in their own
beds, surely." Then he let call the peelers--they had peelers
waiting to mind him--and down they come to the big steppingstones
they have above for crossing the first river coming out of the
lakes; my man going in front to cross over, and the water was high
up covering the Stones. Then he gave two leps or three, and the
peelers heard him give a great shriek down in the flood. They went
home after--what could they do?--and the 'mergency man was found
in the sea stuck in a net.'
I was singularly pleased when I turned up the boreen at last to this
cottage where I lodge, an looked down through a narrow gully to
Dingle Bay. The people bade me welcome when came in, the old woman
kissing my hand.
There is no village near this cottage, yet many farms are scattered
on the hills near it; and as the people are in some ways a leading
family, many men and women look in to talk or tell stories, or to
buy a few pennyworth of sugar or starch. Although the main road
passes a few hundred yards to the west, this cottage is well known
also to the race of local tramps who move from one family to another
in some special neighbourhood or barony. This evening, when I came
in, a little old man in a tall hat and long brown coat was sitting
up on the settle beside the fire, and intending to spend, one could
see, a night or more in the place.