=A brake= is a great convenience when letting out string, as the reel sometimes runs ahead of the kite and so entangles the string; by a little pressure of the foot on the brake, the unwinding ceases. The brake should act directly on the edge of the flange of the spool. The lever of the brake would pass thru the left side of the box, not more than two inches up from the bottom, Fig. 197. In case the spool is too short for the width of the box, wooden blocks can be used to fill in the space, but the opening in the end of the box that the kite line passes thru must be no wider than the distance between the flanges. [Illustration: FIG. 198.] [Illustration: FIG. 199.] Another axle that has been mentioned is made of pipe. The pipe can be one inch in diameter, and must be drilled for the pins that fasten the spool to it. A three-eighths or five-sixteenths hole can be drilled near the end of the pipe outside the box, in which an iron rod is riveted with its outer end bent at a right angle. The rod forms the crank of the reel. If one has access to a heavy metal vise, the axle and crank can be made of one piece, Fig. 198. If one wishes the reel to run very easily, a washer that fits the axle nicely can be fastened to the side of the box with two screws, Fig. 199. The hole in the wood should be a little larger than the hole in the washer, thus making the washer a bearing for the axle. I have one that turns very freely this way. The wires running down to pegs in the ground, shown in Fig. 193, are for the purpose of anchoring the reel when the pull of the kite is on. [Illustration: FIGS. 200, 201, 202.] Thus far the box has been the real support, but other frames can be made as well, Fig. 200. The brake is applied at the rear on this reel, and is operated either by hand or foot. The heavy wires are for anchoring purposes, otherwise the construction may be the same as in Fig. 193. Another way of securing the metal axle to the wooden spool is as follows: Drill two holes thru the pipe just far enough apart to allow spool to fit between. The holes should be just large enough to allow a 16d or 20d nail to go thru. Cut off the heads of the nails, fit in holes with spool on axle, and with good sized staples fasten pins (nails) to sides of spools, see Fig. 201. For the crank, a ⅜” hole can be drilled at the outer end of axle to receive a ⅜” rod bent at one end to form the handle. The end of the crank that passes thru the axle might be threaded about 1¼” so as to put a nut on each side, see Fig. 202. [Illustration: FIG. 203.]