Letters to the young from the Old World : $b Notes of travel
John Stuart Mill · en
Did you ever watch a great volume of water as it dashed over everything
which happened in its way? If you did, then you can imagine how much
interested we grown up men and women were at the sight before us. That
was a charming spot for travelers to tarry for the noonday rest, and yet
the very name of Ain Fijeh brings thoughts exceedingly unpleasant.
Our luncheon was eaten in a field of beautiful green,—a cornfield. The
dragoman hired a corner of it from the owner expressly for our use. It
seemed hardly right to use a grain field in that way, but there was no
other place for so large a party, and since arrangements had been made
we settled down to enjoy the rest which was needed. The villagers seemed
very much interested in us, more so than common, and during the entire
meal watched us very closely. There was a wonderful chattering among
them, and there seemed decided indications of displeasure; but since we
were unable to understand their language we were entirely ignorant as to
what irritated them.
The meal was eaten with a relish, notwithstanding the scowling faces
which were looking on. The usual length of time was taken for rest; the
dragoman awakened from his nap and gave the order to start. Soon after
each person went where the horses were waiting, which place was at the
foot of a very steep hill, where the ladies found rocks large enough to
mount the horses from. Since the dragoman was not needed he remained
back—as we supposed—to pay for the use of the field. After having
arranged ourselves ready for the onward march, we waited for our guide to
come and lead us on through the unknown country. Instead of going with
us, as had been his custom, he called in loud tones, “Ride on and follow
the road.” There were sixteen of us now, and one just as ignorant as the
other of the language and country. We did not fancy starting out alone,
but the order was given and we obeyed, riding fast or slow just as it
suited us.
A change in the road seemed confusing, and we all decided to go no
farther without a guide. The summit of the hill was reached by that time,
and you can scarcely imagine our surprise, on looking back, to see the
dragoman completely surrounded by the villagers. He was unable to turn
from right to left. Truly, like sheep without a shepherd were we.